Smoke ‘Em If Ya Got ‘Em!

Smokin’ Willie’s BBQ Truck

San Fernando Valley, California

The bright yellow BBQ truck is coming your way

Gourmet food trucks are popping up like diesel-powered weeds in southern California, so although I was gracious about having been offered the opportunity to preview one of the newer BBQ-themed trucks, the prospect wasn’t registering very high on the TrippyMeter®. This was before showing up at the home of owner/operator Bill “Smokin’ Willie” Kelley (sorry to disappoint anyone picturing a ganja-toking, pony-tailed country songwriter from Texas) and witnessing “the blessing of the fleet” along with his closest friends and family. In this particular case, the fleet consisted of a sole, bright yellow truck. Kelley has retrofitted this Urban Assault Vehicle with all the tools necessary to quickly and reliably cook and serve items featuring his signature Classic, Shanghai and Chipotle BBQ sauces. His family recounts with pride how almost 40 years ago, Bill’s mother crashed a neighbor’s family reunion after smelling the irresistible aroma of their barbecue sauce cooking away on the smoker. Unable to pry the recipe from their clawed death grip, she worked on reverse engineering the sauce to her own specifications. The sauce became a family treasure, and when Kelley became disillusioned after a long career in the music industry, he devoted himself to creating a marketable version of the family matriarch’s legendary sauce. After a few years, multiple attempts and some collaboration with Chef Michael Acuna, Bill found a market for the three variations on the family recipe as bottled sauces. Since then, he’s conducted classes and has published a grilling guide (with recipes, mouth-watering pictures of the grilled food items and pairing of the food with music suggestions), but recently he has chosen to diversify and peddle cuisine featuring the three blends.

Bill Kelley slaving over a hot BBQ truck

We’ll get to the food momentarily; the blessing of the fleet demands immediate attention. A stranger in the midst of this close group, I was treated like a member of the clan. Bill’s mother was in attendance on this hot afternoon, and all acknowledged audibly that there would be no product if not for her original labor of love. The contributions of friends and family over the years were recognized as we gathered in a circle in front of the truck. Family friend Hector (a member of the Yaqui tribe) led a formal ceremony to bestow luck and blessings on Kelley’s venture – he smudged each attendee in the circle with white sage using an eagle feather, and although I can be a wise-ass on occasion, the ceremony moved me to solemnity. Hector blessed the truck after each person had been blessed, walking first counter-clockwise around the truck to remove the bad spirits, then clockwise to encourage the good spirits. Individually, we passed a pouch of tobacco around the circle; each person said a few words and placed a pinch of tobacco in a clay bowl, which would later be burned as an offering.

The amazing chipotle chicken taco

I have to tell you, nothing fires up the old appetite like a traditional ceremony, and so with the fires at the ready, Bill began serving up the afternoon’s fare. I asked if he planned to change up the menu from what was being served, but he said he had decided on going with a few items that he knows best (although he is open to changing it up in the future). After getting a few kinks worked out (like when to start up the steam table) he offered items from the regular menu. The food was served with rich, homemade barbecue baked beans and potato salad made from baked potatoes rather than boiled spuds (which provided a firmer texture, and fortunately were not swimming in mayonnaise). I tried a few of the menu items; the chipotle chicken taco was a personal favorite. The chicken was shredded and infused with the chipotle barbeque sauce, then topped with fresh, crunchy coleslaw. The sauce was not overpowering but provided a nice, subtle burn at the finish. The Shanghai sauce on the vegan tofu taco was mild, almost defying the title of “BBQ sauce”; I have yet to have a tofu taco on anyone’s truck that I found to my liking – I wish someone would fry the tofu first, but it would probably be a decent option for vegans (even the mayo was Veganaisse). Bill’s son laughingly pondered what the legendary hufu would do for the dish; I’m sure it would be a big hit with vegetarian cannibals. The BBQ meatball sandwiches were delicious, with the meat smothered in the sweeter Classic sauce. Since the meat was high quality and cooked well, these would still be good even with a lighter application of the sauce.

I will always be grateful for being able to share the experience of Bill’s family gathering to launch the truck, reminisce on how it all started and send positive vibes for a successful run. Kelly’s venture has the most important ingredient for a dive into the churning waters of the L.A. County gourmet food trucks – it has heart, and lots of it. No matter what the outcome is, he is already successful. Put that in your pipe and smoke it, Los Angeles.

Smokin’ Willie’s BBQ Truck
Los Angeles County, California

Smokin’ Willies on Twitter

See images of Val attending the pre-launch of Smokin’ Willie’s BBQ truck