Archive for category Trippy Happenings (Events)

Back To The Future

A trippy look backward and forwards, 2011-2012

Great Scott, Marty, I thought 2011 would never endGreat Scott, Marty, I thought 2011 would never end

I got a haircut last night; nothing drastic like a Mr. T Mandinka or a Vanilla Ice high top fade, just a shorter version of what I typically wear. This was as much symbolic as it was maintenance – I looked on it as shedding the dead ends, the outgrowth gone to the ages. It might as well have been the trimmings of the old year hitting the barber shop floor. For the most part, the events that shaped 2011 (both locally and globally) have made us stronger individually and yet seem to have driven us farther apart in our ideologies, our tastes and our sense of humanity.

Site of the first Howard Johnson's in Quincy MASite of the first Howard Johnson's in Quincy MA

On a personal level, 2011 held less travel for me than in years gone by. By year’s end I managed to return to Boston after a nearly two year absence. The visits back to the land of my formative years are always bittersweet; while I love to see my family and friends I’ve known for decades, I always have a difficult time having to return to the West Coast. On the trip I took in many of the places I’ve loved for years (including Putnam Pantry in Danvers and Boston’s famous Union Oyster House), but also realized places that were so close most of my life and yet undiscovered such as the original Dunkin’ Donuts location in Quincy and Kane’s Donuts in Saugus. The promise of a road trip to see my brother in western New Jersey afforded me the opportunity to revisit loved break points (Rein’s Deli in Vernon, Connecticut); experience bucket list locations such as Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, New Jersey; and, return to the place of my birth, Easton, Pennsylvania. What astounds me about living in California is that most natives can barely comprehend a 6-hour drive (equivalent to the quickest route by car from Los Angeles to San Francisco) that can take you through 7 states back East. Even my visit to my brother was a cultural experience in that he introduced me to the social and culinary taste delight of raclette in his home that evening with a visit to one of New Jersey’s legendary diners for breakfast.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters' legendary coffeeStumptown Coffee Roasters' legendary coffee

I made several trips to Portland, Oregon, a city I am falling in love with as it seems to incorporate all the things I love about New England and Austin, Texas, the two places where I’ve spent most of my adult life. Portland is a quirky city that proudly displays its eccentricities on its sleeve, and an amazing food town. Road trippers will also love Portland for its larger-than -life roadside attractions such as Harvey the Rabbit, Paul Bunyan and the largest loaf of bread and pair of sneakers you’re likely to see in your lifetime. One of my favorite spots is actually smaller-than-life – Mill Ends City Park, the world’s smallest park. From the food carts (many of which pre-date L.A.’s gourmet food trucks) to the Church of Elvis, from the Portlandia sculpture to the former White Stag (now Portland, Oregon) sign over Old Town, Stumptown Coffee to Voodoo Donuts, Portland is going to be a place I look forward to returning to in 2012.

Charleston, SC's historic Old City MarketCharleston, SC's historic Old City Market

My trip to Charleston will undoubtedly be the jewel in the crown of my lifetime travel achievements as visiting South Carolina completed my lifelong goal of visiting all 50 states. Although the city holds on a little too tight to its Confederacy leanings (it was, after all, where the Civil War started and where South Carolina became the first state to leave the union), the people are warm and bursting with legendary Southern hospitality. Charleston is a colonial town, similar to Boston, where the difference lies in its landscape – the tallest buildings in Charleston are the steeples of its historic churches. Visits to Fort Sumter, the Slave Mart and to see the recovered H.L. Hunley submersible were among a few of the historic sites I visited, and the amazing low country cuisine almost defies description. I enjoyed meals at Ernie’s, Gullah Cuisine Lowcountry Restaurant, Jack’s Cosmic Dogs, Hominy Grill and 82 Queen (to name but a few) that will always find a warm place in my heart and my stomach.

The Dali Museum in St. Petersburg FLThe Dali Museum in St. Petersburg FL

No trip is ever complete without a road trip, and my South Carolina adventure included a drive to the Tampa, Florida area to visit my daughter and fellow adventurer, Alie. After a brief stop in Savannah, Georgia to see the church where “Jingle Bells” was supposed to have been written and Chippewa Square’s imaginary Forrest Gump bus stop, I went on a boiled peanut-fueled adventure that included St. Petersburg’s Dali Museum, South Pasadena’s Ted Peter’s Famous Smoked Fish, Tampa’s world’s largest bowling pin and the Cuban-tinged downtown of Ybor City.  Prior to flying home, I made an impromptu stop at the Disney-meets-trailer park version of Mexicana known as South of the Border just across the North Carolina state line.

A giant bi bim bap in the making at the L.A. Street Food FestA giant bi bim bap in the making at the L.A. Street Food Fest

Back in Los Angeles, I discovered new restaurants and said goodbye to places I have visited; 2011 marked a farewell to Haldi Root, Angeli Caffe, The Manila Machine (Filipino gourmet food truck), Papoo’s Hot Dog Show and moko (among others), but opened my eyes to wonderfully accessible purveyors of delightful cuisine including King’s Row Gastropub, Larry’s, M.B. Post, Urbano Pizza Bar, Roxolana and a cast of characters to huge to mention. Rock star chef Ludo Lefebvre continued his legendary Ludo Bites popups while wunderkind Michael Voltaggio opened ink. and gourmet sandwich shop ink.sack, but I’ve decided to let the chef groupies cover the spots that are accessible to the wealthy or very lucky. My top celebrity chef moment had to be attending a media dinner at WP24 when Wolfgang Puck himself joined the group and gave us a tour of his kitchen. It was hard to continue to enjoy 5-star dining after taking a Sunday walk through Occupy L.A.‘s encampment; the experience has given me a profound appreciation for what I’ve been privileged to experience and will strive to cover more sites and dining locations in 2012 that are able to be enjoyed by everyone. I attended several of The Minty‘s food crawls in and around Los Angeles, and anticipate participating more in the new year, including her upcoming beef uterus crawl (one of the few bovine body parts I haven’t eaten yet).

Wayside Cafe's fried avocados at the Fallbrook Avocado FestivalWayside Cafe's fried avocados at the Fallbrook Avocado Festival

2011 was a good year for festivals including three of the regional county fairs, a visit to the original Renaissance Pleasure Faire, the famous Fallbrook Avocado and Santa Maria Menudo Festivals and amazing Italian, Danish, Mongolian and Anatolian festivals. The beauty of living is a state the size of California is that there are literally hundreds of festivals statewide, and I feel as if I’ve only scratched the surface. I plan to make it a goal to attend next year’s Coarsegold Tarantula Festival, even after being informed that there will be none of the hairy arachnids on the menu.

Hot dogs sautéed in cabernet sauvignon over brie and topped with seaweedHot dogs sautéed in cabernet sauvignon over brie and topped with seaweed

This past year saw me finding creative ways to prepare and cook dishes that I wouldn’t be able to get in a restaurant (pig penis on a stick and grunion rings come to mind immediately). I ended the year savoring shark’s fin soup, a dish whose days are numbered in California, but this year I hope to visit other states to find dishes on the California no-fly list: bear, horse, cuy, and squirrel, to name a few. Foie gras (at least goose liver pate made using the process of funneling grain down a waterfowl’s gut) is on its way out; a few rock star chefs are up in arms about the ban, blatantly announcing that they plan to defy it. Hopefully said chefs either find what the state determines to be a humane method of making foie gras or move on to making different dishes – surely they’re not one-trick ponies; after all, they’ve had about 8 years since California State Senate Bill 1520 passed to prepare. Personally, I’ve enjoyed it previously and won’t terribly miss it, but know sampling it again only requires a long drive or plane ticket if the desire is that strong. We could debate all day whether or not the practice is cruel; on one hand, you have people like Anthony Bourdain visiting a farm where he narrates how natural and painless the process is – on the other hand I personally watched Eddie Lin down three huge bowls of pho in February and when he could finally speak he swore in severe pain never to attempt that kind of competitive eating again.

Hanukkah lunch with foodie friends at Langer's Delicatessen in Los AngelesHanukkah lunch with foodie friends at Langer's Delicatessen in Los Angeles

In terms of the writing, I will continue to update both the web site and the Facebook page (a great deal of the content has been and will continue to be exclusive to each). I will welcome guest bloggers, strive to do more podcasts and video and vary the content to include themed articles (locations from a particular movie, etc.), music events and interviews and occasional commentary. I look forwarded to meeting new people in my adventures and have solidified friendships with many of the foodies, bloggers, restaurateurs and public relations folk that I’ve had the pleasure to share my experiences with. Unfortunately, there are still some in the community that choose not to accept my outstretched hand in friendship. To these people I hold no animosity; in some cases I feel sympathy (not empathy) for them as I wonder if they are as lonely and miserable as their demeanors suggest. That having been said, I will be cleaning house in 2012, and this includes dusting out the people I rarely communicate with on Twitter, Foursquare and Facebook who essentially don’t wish to communicate with me anyway. If you are in this group, my 2012 wish for you is that you open up your hearts and let sunshine in – with the current state of affairs in our country and the overwhelming atmosphere of divisiveness, separatism, greed and lack of empathy for our fellow human beings, we will learn to get along as a people or we will perish. For those I continue to follow or friend, please do me and your other followers a big favor – I realize you are limited to 140 characters, but please try to be a little more descriptive in your posts/tweets. While a post that simply says, “Agreed” or “That sounds delicious” may mean something to you and the person you’re targeting, it means absolutely nothing to the rest of us and becomes spam – that’s what DMs are for.

Honey persimmon pie from Fruit & Flour at Artisanal LA's 2011 Holiday Pop-UpHoney persimmon pie from Fruit & Flour at Artisanal LA's 2011 Holiday Pop-Up

Finally, since we all have an opportunity to wipe the slate clean and start over, I ask from you what I promise to provide in 2012 and onward – honesty. If I meet you at an event, a restaurant, festival, etc., please don’t tell me you’ll keep in touch if that’s the farthest thing from your mind. If we discuss collaboration and you have no intention of working with me, tell me up front. In 2011, I spoke to no fewer than 3 Peruvian chefs who took my card and said they’d let me know where cuy was available in the L.A. area – I have heard from none. I discussed creating the historic oyster ice cream with several people who make ice cream who remarked that it sounded like a great idea, but one that apparently died on the vine. I assure you, I will not think less of you as a person; in fact I will probably have a higher respect for you for being honest. Friendship, like respect, is earned and I hope to earn both from those of you whom I do not currently enjoy either with; however it is not an expectation or requirement for us to work together. To those of you who read Trippy Food, I offer my thanks and hope you find it enjoyable; please feel free to comment or write to me at val@trippyfood.com. To those who do not, I invite you to share my experiences, but I bear no ill will if you feel for some reason that you can’t. Either way, I wish you all the best in 2011 and hope to see you on the road.

Val

GALLERY: See images from Val’s’ travels and culinary experiences in 2011

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Let Them Eat Macarons

Occupy Los Angeles
City Hall, Los Angeles, California

Corner of Spring and Temple Streets in Los AngelesCorner of Spring and Temple Streets in Los Angeles

You’d have to live in a cave to not be aware of the movement occurring in cities across America (and throughout the world) under the collective title of “Occupy”; certainly those living in tents on either side of Los Angeles City Hall are not only aware but are active participants of the movement. In a show of solidarity for the original mass protest in New York City (Occupy Wall Street), disenfranchised and disillusioned Angelenos have amassed a smaller-scale live-in protest that is now well into its second month.

I recently toured the encampment on a warm and sunny Sunday morning, marveling that the cold, damp weather had not dampened the spirits of the protesters. The grassy areas on either side of City Hall were reminiscent of a Depression-era Hooverville, yet the air was not thick with despair; music was playing and groups were gathered together to plan protest activities for the week or to discuss their anger at a situation that has clearly ignited a spark that some politicians and members of the media are labeling “class warfare”.

Guy Fawkes, the face of the Occupy movementGuy Fawkes, the face of the Occupy movement

There were no incidents of violence, no police assembled in riot gear, no pedestrians scrambling for safety as occupants lay siege to City Hall – in the encampment, Angelenos were doing something that one does not frequently see in Southern California – they were taking care of one another. One person was walking through the tents stopping to ask people if they needed food; those who did were handed sandwiches and fruit. Plywood walls were erected in order to protect the marble fountain in City Hall Park and although the box was “decorated” with images of a carnivorous, tentacled U.S. Stock Exchange and other protest imagery, the stone walls of City Hall were not defaced.

Rows of Port-o-Potties provided little sanitation; the encampment had the aroma of unwashed gym socks, not surprising when considering that occupants have been living in tents over a month. Had I been about 10 years older, the whole scene would have been like an acid flashback of waking up to the strains of Jimi Hendrix playing the Star Spangled Banner in a muddy field in upstate New York. It’s uncertain how long Occupy Los Angeles can continue their protest; even the most organized segments of the movement appear to have loosely formed demands, but whatever set them off, they’re mad as hell and they’re not going to take it anymore. For now, the briefcase set that gets up every morning to the alarm clock warning and takes the 8:15 into the city are going to have to get used to it, because Occupy Los Angeles is dug in for winter.

The customized wall protects the City Hall Park fountainThe customized wall protects the City Hall Park fountain

Those of us in the 99 percent that have jobs, a roof over our heads and don’t despair over where our next meal will come from should take a moment to be thankful, for there for the grace of God go us. Think about that the next time you’re gloating about how you got impossible to acquire reservations for Chef Rockstar Pop-up’s latest exclusive celebrity-packed bistro.

Occupy Los Angeles
Los Angeles City Hall
200 North Spring Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012
GPS coordinates:  34°3’10.26″N 118°14’36.53″W

GALLERY: See images from a quiet Sunday at Occupy Los Angeles at Los Angeles City Hall

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How Bazaar!

The 2011 Anatolian Cultures and Food Festival
Costa Mesa, California

The omnipresent nazar (evil eye) hangs from the entrance to ward off bad energyThe omnipresent nazar (evil eye) hangs from the entrance to ward off bad energy

There is a high degree of probability that the average man on the street with an American public school education couldn’t tell you who or what the Anatolians were; you’re likely to get an answer in the form of a question along the lines of, “Weren’t they the dudes with the purple shrouds and Nikes waiting for the comet?” or “Wasn’t that those guys with the black and white faces on Star Trek?”.  Anatolia is one of the most influential cultural centers in recorded human history, encompassing most of modern-day Turkey, as well as parts of Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Iraq and Syria and has been home to or occupied by a wide variety of higher civilizations including the Roman Empire, Greece, Persia, Armenia, Assyria and the Ottoman Empire (and no, Man On The Street, the latter is not a furniture chain in North Carolina). The Anatolian Cultures and Food Festival (the third such event to be held on the sprawling Orange County Fairgrounds) is a celebration of the legacy of each of these groups, including music, food, art, industry and architecture.

A Mardin stonecutter at workA Mardin stonecutter at work

It was apparent at the entrance that this was would be a culturally enlightening experience after having to walk beneath a giant nazar (“evil eye”) dangling from the gateway arch. Simply navigating the layout of the festival was itself a history lesson; upon entering, a more than a dozen portals along Civilizations Road led through several thousands of years from the earliest Anatolian cultures to the modern Tűrkiye arch that opens into the fairgrounds. At each Stargate, representatives of each culture greeted fairgoers in typical period clothing, willing to be captured standing next to tourists with their favorite digital soul-stealing devices, and trust me when I say that these may just have been the hardest working staff members at the festival (picture mustering a smile after standing for 8 hours on heated blacktop in leather strap sandals).

The central area was populated by umbrella-topped tables and a conveniently located Ottoman Coffeehouse; at the far end, musicians and folk dancers performed on a massive stage during the course of the festival. Cities of antiquity ringed the fairgrounds, cleverly recreated in small scale using a unique process combining photography and carpentry in an effort to realize photo-perfect recreations of historic structures. The concept sounds a little cheesy until you become acclimated to it; metal and wood frames give the structures depth and dimension; actual photographic images are then overlaid on the frames to create three-dimensional photographic renditions of the landmarks. Walking along the grounds past, around and through these structures gave the impression of walking through a photo album; some of them featured educational and historic displays, and booths just inside each city’s gates offered textiles, art, and craftworks that the featured city is renowned for. A group of musicians playing traditional Sufi music performed on a small stage set up in the city of Konya and halfway through their “set” brought up a member of the Mevlevi Order of Sufi who demonstrated the practice of “whirling” as part of the formal Sama ceremony. I was considering the whirling dervish a performer but was educated to the fact that his spinning was a religious practice and was asked (along with the rest of the audience) to refrain from applauding. Although the dervish never reached the velocity of Warner Brothers’ Tasmanian devil I have to marvel at his ability to rotate constantly without painting the audience with karnıyarık or landing on the small children seated in the front of the crowd.

A whirling dervish doing what they do best - whirlingA whirling dervish doing what they do best - whirling

In addition to landmark structures from the cities of Istanbul (featuring the Blue Mosque and Maiden’s Tower); Antalya (with the stone Aspendos amphitheater and Temple of Apollo); Demre; Mardin; Konya (framed by Karatay Gate);  and, Van (with models of Hosaf Castle and the oldest surviving Armenian Church of Akhdamar), a scale model of Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace was home to the festival’s sultan and his court as the actual palace was during the 600-plus years Turkey was ruled by the Ottoman Empire. A 35-member mehter Ottoman Marching Band paraded across the grounds to perform for the sultan in front of the palace and even without amplification they could be heard from anywhere on the grounds, almost drowning out pop singer Ferhat Atli performing on the main stage.

The sultan awaits the musical processionThe sultan awaits the musical procession

The Grand Bazaar was the perfect place not only to pick up Anatolian souvenirs for the kids (“My dad went to the Anatolian Festival and all I got was the evil eye”) but also to watch craftsmen selling works created on site. Naturally, travel agencies, airlines and telecommunications companies were also on hand, but I made my way quickly past them to the Anatolian Cuisine Cooking Stage to watch Chef Sureyya Gokeri demonstrate the preparation of Ali Nazik, a dish featuring ground meat with eggplant/yogurt puree. Chef Gokeri earned personal points by turning in a very real and honest performance – it was like watching your mother preparing dinner (if Mom was Turkish). For the most part, she touted using Turkish ingredients, constantly answering her own question to the audience as to why you should by loudly proclaiming, “Because they taste better!” and emphatically stating that the most important ingredient in Turkish cuisine is love. At one point she ladled a generous plastic spoonful of the ground beef into her mouth, shook her head and quietly said, “Nope. It’s not hot enough”.  Foodie snobs would have dropped their serviettes in shock as Gokeri’s assistant milled through the audience with a foil tin full of the moist and savory concoction, handing out spoons for all to “dip”, but I was in my element and the time I invested in watching the demonstration paid off in spades.

Women preparing the tortilla-like pastry by hand for gözlemeWomen preparing the tortilla-like pastry by hand for gözleme

A spoonful of sugar may help the medicine go down, but a spoonful of Ali Nazik is hardly enough to satiate an Anatolian hunger, so a stroll to the food court was in order. A replica of the Fountain of Ahmet III stood in the middle of the food court area, where the spigots on the faux-marble walls that have quenched the thirst of weary travelers since 1728 were providing endless streams of dollar lemonade, but I was saving my liquid intake for the Ottoman Coffeehouse after some substantial fare. The City of Corum was scooping out massive handfuls of leblebisi, a roasted chickpea snack they’re famous for. The copper-clad roaster used to make the leblebisi looked like a high-end cement mixer, but it wasn’t churning out product while I stood there. The chickpeas had a smooth, polished, hard shell with a dry and starchy interior. More than a handful of these (tasty as they were) would have driven me to deep-throat one of the lemonade fountain spigots.

There were so many amazing dishes I’d never heard of or imagined, making the task of settling on a main course harder than Sophie’s choice. I opted to the Anatolian equivalent of a beef burrito – the tantuni. This ideal street food is created by liberally filling a hot lavash (a tortilla-like, flour-based flatbread) with seasoned ground beef, onion, and what I swear to you looked like pico de gallo and then rolling it into a handy, portable bundle wrapped lovingly in a sheet of paper. And the taste… well, was like a ground beef burrito – a delicious, savory ground beef burrito. At a nearby stall I was unable to resist the come-hither of mantı, a diminutive Turkish dumpling that is vended by the cup rather than by the piece. Each Lilliputian, slightly al dente dough packet contained beef and onion and was topped with a ladle of warm yogurt sauce; I sprinkled sumac and dried flakes of mint on top creating a cup of complex flavors and textures that was unlike any other ravioli or dumpling dish I’d ever tried.

Preparing small batches of künefe by handPreparing small batches of künefe by hand

Several booths were making künefe, a crispy and sweet dessert that resembled a mutant grilled cheese sandwich. Sweet Nabulsi cheese was sandwiched between layers of threaded phylo dough and then cooked golden brown in a huge flat pan rotated over heat that made it look like a lumberjack-sized pancake. Straight off the stove the cheesy pie was cut into slices and then doused with a ladle of brackish-looking sugar-based syrup. I was expecting a teeth-folding sweetness like its nearby cousin, baklava, but even with the sugar sauce it wasn’t overly sweet. A chef from Hatay (the city where the dish originates) also had a tray of pickled black walnuts in syrup, and when I say walnuts I’m not referring to the nutmeat extracted from the hard, woody shell we’re familiar with. The nuts are removed from the tree prior to the development of the shell, still encased in the pulpy covering and then brined whole resulting in a remarkably tender fruit that was almost unrecognizable as walnut.

Although I’m not much of a dessert person, I was captivated by the güllaç, a wet, white pastry dish. The dough is made from corn starch and wheat flour and layered like lasagna with pistachio and garnished with pomegranate seeds; after its milk bath, the cold dessert tastes like a simplistic cross between rice pudding and noodle kugel. Being that I was stuffed like a karnıyarık, I fought the urge to queue up for dondurma, a sticky ice-cream that is most likely more fun to watch being served than to eat. Erol Kozoglu enjoyed teasing his patrons, holding the confection out (cone attached) with the long metal scoop used to crowbar the ice cream loose and then snatching it back before they could grasp it. The ingredients used to make it result in a chewy ice cream that is probably closer in texture to salt water taffy than a scoop of your favorite Cold Stone flavor.

Industrial-strength Turkish coffeeIndustrial-strength Turkish coffee

I waddled over to the Ottoman Coffee house for a dainty cup of sturdy, hair-straightening Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) and waited about 15 minutes while each cup was brewed by hand. The can of Turkish roast used read “Kurukahvev Mehmet Efend”, which I believe is Turkish for “You’re not man enough to handle this cuppa Joe” – the presentation in a green polka-dot demitasse cup did nothing to hide the fact that this was the kind of coffee that would fuel you for a 16-hour shift of back-breaking labor. I wanted the traditional preparation, but light on the sugar and I wasn’t disappointed with what I received. Only slightly sweet, the coffee was full bodied (you could say it was buff) and obviously strong, yet neither bitter nor burnt tasting. One of the other cafe patrons made the mistake of stirring his, which distributed the silt at the bottom as thick as Euphrates mud throughout the beverage.

I honestly had no idea what to expect at the event but was more than pleasantly surprised – the entire visit was a learning experience from trying to communicate with the ESL vendors, to experiencing traditional music, to sampling the amazing cuisines of the different Anatolian cultures;  I’m already planning to rock the cradle of civilization at next year’s event.

Anatolian Cultures and Food Festival
Orange County Fairgrounds
88 Fair Drive
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
GPS coordinates:  33°39’56.67″N 117°54’3.51″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s’ visit to the 2011 Anatolian Cultures and Food Festival at the OC Fairgrounds in Costa Mesa, CA

Try to make your own Ali Nazik using this recipe

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Una Aventura Llamada Menudo

6th Annual Menudo Festival
Santa Maria, California

Can't you almost taste it?Can't you almost taste it?

Menudo is such a simple and homespun dish, yet just the mention of it evokes a wide variety of reactions. There are those who will remember the unique smell emanating throughout the kitchen, conjuring sweet childhood memories; others will tolerate it at a Mexican restaurant as a cure for a raucous Saturday night; there’s yet another group that will find the thought of cooked-down beef feet and chunks of cow stomach with a liberal dash of corn kernels soaked in lye horrific at best. For the purpose of this article, we won’t consider that “other” group (the one that made Ricky Martin famous). You’re not likely to see menudo on the menu at many high-end Mexican restaurants, as it is generally regarded as a food of the people, a way to make what has formerly been regarded as inferior cuts of meat and offal palatable. Conversely, you won’t be able to “make a run for the border” or sit down to a steaming, earthy bowl at your local El Torito either. Most places that serve menudo do so on weekends, typically on Sunday mornings, and if you’ve never had this gut warming soup you owe it to yourself to give it the old college try. Eventually you will come to enjoy the ritual of dropping in spoonsful of chopped onions, cilantro and oregano provided on the side with a squirt of lime and a light sprinkle of dried, crushed chiles and letting the smell and the taste take you to a special place.

The row of vendors participating in the menudo contestThe row of vendors participating in the menudo contest

Since 2006, one of those special places has been Santa Maria, California, home to the annual Menudo Festival. The event has been held at different locations around town; the 2011 event took place in the street between the Santa Maria Town Center Mall and its adjacent parking structure. Since its inception, the Santa Maria Menudo Festival has been a fundraising event organized by the National Latino Peace Officers Association of Northern Santa Barbara County to benefit the Robert Ramos Scholarship Fund. The process for choosing the best menudo is simple – your $5 admission gets you a ticket pre-printed with the names of the contestants (there were 10 participants in this year’s event). As you wander from booth to booth your ticket gets a checkmark from the vendor and you gape in wide-eyed wonder as the rich, red elixir is ladled into a 4 ounce cup for your dining pleasure. Those of you who think that polishing off 4 ounces of menudo isn’t very formidable needs to do the math and multiply that by ten for a 40-ounce challenge that even Adam Richman can appreciate – that is if you decide to empty your cup at each stop. Once you’ve hit each booth it’s a simple matter of dropping your ticket into the cardboard box at the booth of your favorite (no voter registration or valid ID required); each ballot box is counted and the winner gets to proudly display the People’s Choice trophy at their fine dining establishment for one year.

The panel of local celebrity judges for the menudo contestThe panel of local celebrity judges for the menudo contest

Naturally, the founding fathers of menudo weren’t going to idly stand by and watch democracy in action without making their official voice heard, so the contest also features a panel of judges that chooses their own “best of show”. The 2011 panel consisted of Santa Maria City Councilman Mike Cordero; KCOI anchor Victoria Sanchez; Telemundo anchor Laura Aguirre; Univision’s Diego Santiago; and California’s 47th Lieutenant Governor Abel Maldonado (apparently Ricky Martin had a previous engagement).  After the judges were announced, the festivities commenced with a soundtrack provided by local radio station KPAT and a variety of singers and bands performing rancheras, Latin pop and traditional music. Although the menudo vendors were neatly arranged in a row, there were other food options available with stalls hawking elote, huaraches, tacos and agua frescas alongside ice cream trucks and kettle corn wagons. I decided to do my sampling at random, starting with Mariscos Ensenadas. What drew me to their booth was that the sole person manning the booth was Juan, the only contestant decked out in chef’s attire. He explained that the restaurant is known for their Michoacán (Ensenada)-style cuisine, and that their menudo used beef feet to create the stock for taste only (they were removed prior to serving). A big part of the experience is presentation, and since that part of the playing field was leveled with uniform Styrofoam cups, I took note of the extra effort put in by vendors like Mariscos Ensenada, who had the condiments nicely displayed in hand-painted clay bowls on a Mexican blanket. Their soup had the perfect amount of spicy and a thick, flavorful broth.

Chef Juan of Mariscos Ensenada is proud of his menudoChef Juan of Mariscos Ensenada is proud of his menudo

I initially assumed the task of deciding which menudo stood foot and stomach above the rest was going to be confusing, expecting similarity with each cup, but that couldn’t have been farther than the truth. El Pollo-Non’s menudo was more of a mellow brew with very little spice and big chunks of uncharacteristically tender tripe; they also used beef feet but retained the “meat” while discarding the bones. Taqueria Carmelita used white hominy and primarily book tripe; I was impressed with their choice of shredded (rather than chopped) onions as part of their condiments. I made the mistake of asking if they used beef feet, and got a response of, “You like beef feet?” followed by the presentation of an intact, steaming hot bovine appendage wrapped in foil. I wasn’t sure whether or not I liked beef feet, but I wasn’t about to insult his generous gift – I opted to slowly walk away with my foot in my mouth.

That is mint and garlic you see in la Chiquita's menudoThat is mint and garlic you see in la Chiquita's menudo

El Palenque also went the extra mile on the garnishes with a bowl of chopped fresh jalapeno. I had to give them extra credit props for hand-making thick, crispy tortillas on a grill at the back of the booth. Their menudo was oilier than most of the others, but that isn’t a detriment to the taste. The peppermint candies on the table were a nice touch and I pocketed a couple knowing damned well they would be a requirement later on. My personal favorite was the zesty, ruby-red brew from the traditionally-clad staff at La Chiquita. The sturdy soup read like a stew with big sections of tripe and beef feet meat (say that three times fast). I fished a garlic clove out of the cup and the woman at the booth recoiled in horror, offering to remove it immediately, but I informed her that I was a garlic lover and was looking forward to how it colored the menudo. I didn’t realize (but was informed) that although the soup is usually made with garlic, most menudo aficionados don’t like pieces of it in the bowl thus prompting the removal of any stray cloves prior to serving.

At Mariscos Ensenada, good grades for presentationAt Mariscos Ensenada, good grades for presentation

Taqueria Guerrero served up a no-nonsense, dark, murky broth of medium spice, and Taqueria las Brasas offered a brew with a spice level that matched my tastes, although their tripe was a bit too chewy. I was surprised to see an entry from Vallarta Supermarket, but only from a standpoint of a grocery chain competing with restaurants; anyone who has been in the cafe at the front of your friendly neighborhood Vallarta knows that they serve cheap yet delicious Mexican food. Their cauldron of delights held a menudo with huge chunks of beef feet (off the bone) but no hominy; the tripe was firm in texture without being overly chewy. La Picosita’s soup was the brightest red I’d ever seen and the morning sun hitting it gave it the appearance of a vat of bubbling lava. The menudo had high oil content but probably the best tripe texture of any of the contenders. I especially enjoyed savoring their soup while watching them throw together huaraches, a process that involves enough oil to make it a spectator sport for me.

The rich and flavorful cabeza taco from Taqueria La CoquetaThe rich and flavorful cabeza taco from Taqueria La Coqueta

By the final booth I had hit a menudo wall – I walked it off, sipping on ice-cold horchata before getting the courage up to grab a couple of cabeza tacos (not a euphemism) from Taqueria La Coqueta and await the judges’ decision. After lengthy deliberation, the top spot went to Taqueria Guerrero, with Taqueria La Coqueta placing and a show from Taqueria Carmelita. On the other hand, the people had decided that the big menudo kahuna was Taqueria La Coqueta, followed by Mariscos Ensenada with El Pollo-Non finishing third. I would have lost money betting on the event as my top choice didn’t make either contest, but I was too satiated in a menudo-fueled haze to contest the results.

There can be only one... per yearThere can be only one... per year

The event takes place every year on the Sunday closest to the Fiesta Patrias de Dieciséis de septiembre (the holiday of Mexican Independence Day on September 16), but there’s no need to wait that long, since you can probably get an outstanding bowl of menudo from the local family-run Mexican restaurant on any given Sunday. For the uninitiated, all it takes is the first spoonful of this powerful bowl of liquid gold before you find yourself living la vida loca.

Santa Maria Town Center Mall (outdoor site of the 2011 festival)
142 Town Center East
Santa Maria, CA 93454
GPS coordinates:  34°57’6.54″N 120°26’0.80″W

Mariscos Ensenada
1127 W. Main Street, Suite C
Santa Maria, CA 93458-4216
GPS coordinates:  34°57’13.69″N 120°27’9.17″W

El Pollo-Non
312 W. Main Street
Santa Maria, CA 93458
GPS coordinates:  34°57’10.84″N 120°26’22.84″W

Taqueria Carmelita
809 North Broadway
Santa Maria, CA 93454
GPS coordinates: 34°57’38.60″N 120°26’11.14″W

El Palenque
715 South Broadway
Santa Maria, CA 93454
GPS coordinates: 34°56’42.99″N 120°26’9.92″W

Super Carniceria La Chiquita
1617 North Broadway
Santa Maria, CA 93454-1925
GPS coordinates: 34°58’6.28″N 120°26’11.24″W

Taqueria Guerrero
123 West Main Street
Santa Maria, CA 93458-5024
GPS coordinates: 34°57’11.77″N 120°26’13.21″W

Las Brasas Mexican Food
315 West Main Street
Santa Maria, CA 93458-5028
GPS coordinates: 34°57’11.82″N 120°26’23.45″W

Vallarta Supermarket
1875 North Broadway
Santa Maria, CA 93454
GPS coordinates: 34°58’29.28″N 120°26’10.25″W

La Picosita
923 North Broadway
Santa Maria, CA 93458
GPS coordinates: 34°57’43.43″N 120°26’9.51″W

Information about the event at the web site of Latino Business and Community Council of Santa Maria, California

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to the 6th Annual Santa Maria Menudo Festival in Santa Maria, California

Read an article from OC Weekly’s Gustavo Arellano about the power of menudo

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I Bid You All Fair Well

The 2011 Los Angeles County Fair
Pomona, California

A food wonderland offers a multitude of choices at the LA County FairA food wonderland offers a multitude of choices at the LA County Fair

Perhaps you’re wondering, “What could possibly be left to say about the L.A. County Fair since last year’s Trippy Food/Deep End Dining joint podcast extravaganza?” Seriously, can it get any better than watching a cow eat the placenta of her newly calved offspring? I dare say, “Nay!”, but after my recent visit to this year’s fair, either we were fighting off a deep-fried food induced coma and slept through a decent amount of the exhibits or the Fair is ramping up their game. At FairView Farms’ Big Red Barn (where Bessie’s now-famous all-you-can-eat afterbirth buffet took place), staff members were letting children milk a goat that was nonchalantly grazing on some hay with its head in a vise-like contraption, while puff-ball feather-footed Brahma chickens ran around in a nearby pen. I took the opportunity to try to get answers to a couple of my most nagging livestock questions: can humans drink pig milk, and can you eat the female parts of a cow? Well, O Best Beloved, I received conflicting answers on the first question and a resounding, “You betcha!” on the second, so I decided to get my mind off critter eating briefly and check out the garden area behind the barn sponsored by McKinley’s Grill, who uses the fruits and vegetables grown there at their restaurant located at the Sheraton Fairplex Hotel. My obsessive curiosity was working a double shift, and I asked one of the gardeners what two of the flowers were – one was a dainty, periwinkle blue flower that almost looked like a daisy, and the other was a dead, dry lacey flower similar to Queen Anne’s lace (both were on stalks about 4 feet tall). Well, roll me in peanuts and call me Goober, it turns out the blue flower was lettuce and the dead stalk was a carrot. Apparently the vegetables send out a flowering stalk (referred to as “bolting”) in order to seed; in the case of the lettuce, once this occurs the leaves become bitter.

Handmade, jar-churned butterHandmade, jar-churned butter

On the other side of the barn, Cindi (of Cindi’s Curds and Whey) was demonstrating the manufacture of cheese curds, cream cheese, butter and ice cream, all made in small batches by hand. Cindi (whose surname is not Muffett as one would suspect) had a Mason jar handy containing a yellow lump surrounded in white fluid; this was described not as the results of my lab tests, but as the successful manufacture of small-batch, hand-churned butter. Her method is simple – fill a jar with fresh cream (and it doesn’t get much fresher than straight out of the cow), tightly seal the lid and shake vigorously for at least half an hour. According to Cindi, once you stop hearing the sloshing, you have whipped cream; when you start to hear thumping, that’s when the butter starts forming.

Carol Ann Susi demonstrates canning plum preservesCarol Ann Susi demonstrates canning plum preserves

Nearby, Carol Ann Susi was doing a demonstration on canning preserves, in this case plums. Once skinned and cut, the fruit was white in color, but when cooked down with sugar added, it once again attained its natural purple color. One pavilion contained aisles and rows of competition winners that in addition to displaying the winners of the canning competition featured the best of sugar art (think marzipan), homemade wines and beer, textiles and traditional art.  The Marketplace is devoted to competition and production of hand-crafted beer and wine, including the award-winning beers from the Los Angeles International Commercial Beer Competition. No PBR and Two-Buck Chuck on tap here – the vibe in the hall was like someone took the Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival and the Munich Oktoberfest and shoehorned them into one building. In addition to displaying and providing samples of the award-winning brews, there is gourmet food (such as pork belly pizza) available to complement your selection – would you care for a nice Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling to bring out the sweetness of that corn dog, ma’am?

The Ploughboys perform in the Celtic VillageThe Ploughboys perform in the Celtic Village

One of the areas I believe to be new to the 2011 fair is the Celtic Village; in addition to being able to purchase Celtic crafts and goods you can get your fill of fish and chips, corned beef or bangers and mash or just kick back and dance a little jig to the strains of the Celtic bands performing. Mackinnon’s Kilts had a sale rack of some fine wraps, and I considered acquiring one but felt that with my red dragon shirt on I’d look a little like Guy Fieri attending a Catholic school for girls. A nearby Australian Outback didn’t quite have the same level of energy; aside from a couple of caged, screaming kookaburras and some wallabies, kangaroos and emus in a big pen, there was some Aussie enthusiasm lacking that the late, great Steve Irwin could have greatly enhanced. An area called Wilderness Ridge features a lumberjack competition (although from what I saw it looked like they were trying to see who could sleep the longest) and cage with huge, feisty bears (unfortunately California was under-represented as the bears in question turned out to be European brown bears, probably a wise choice since although watching handlers being mauled by grizzlies has a higher entertainment value, it would have ruined little Timmy’s appetite for funnel cakes). Just past Wilderness Ridge sit the historic trains maintained by the Railway and Locomotive Historical Society; the area is anchored by a relocated 1887 Santa Fe Railroad station depot from Arcadia and featuring numerous old locomotives, cabooses, and other railway cars that fairgoers – the engineers will even let you blow the engine’s steam whistle.

The new Shark Encounter exhibit features 4 nurse sharks and a lemon sharkThe new Shark Encounter exhibit features 4 nurse sharks and a lemon shark

This year’s big draw is the Shark Encounter exhibit; four full grown nurse sharks and a lemon shark are encased in a huge tank into which the loudest, most obnoxious kid is plunged after being smeared in calves’ blood. I’m probably making the last part up, but large crowds gather in front of the tank while people enter the tank to get personal with the carnivorous fish. If fake carnivores are more your speed, there’s always the hall of animatronic dinosaurs whose repetitive, jerky motions couldn’t frighten Don Knotts, but there’s a nice tie-in at the end where kids get to handle live animals that are hold-overs from the Cretaceous period.

Grilled oysters, Mexican-styleGrilled oysters, Mexican-style

By this point the thought of voracious, flesh-eating monsters devouring everything is site was putting a fire in my belly, a ranging inferno that could only be quenched by fair fare. As much as I coveted the prized meat scepter known as the turkey leg, it was going to have to take a back seat to the more exotic offerings once comes to expect from the county fair. The ubiquitous Chicken Charlie’s had a separate billboard to showcase this year’s artery-clogging dish to be topped – deep-fried Kool-Aid. Imagine a Dunkin Munchkin permeated with strawberry Kool-Aid and lightly dusted with Kool-Aid powder – as the pitcher-shaped man once said, “Oh yeah!” Having sampled these crimson dough globes at the OC Fair, I can attest to their good grades on the flavor scale, but I was saving the room in my gut for new conquests, the first of which was provided at a booth simply labeled “BBQ Oysters”. Although I’ve had backyard grilled oysters with fresh butter and Gilroy garlic, as well as BBQ oysters (at the Farm House Restaurant in Olema, CA), I’ve never experienced what this vendor called “Mexican-style” oysters, grilled and topped with pico de gallo and shredded queso fresco. I tend to shy away from topping oysters with things that hide mollusks of dubious origin, but the pico and cheese added a fresh and unique flavor, like a roasted campechana.

The delicious deep fried dill pickles from The RanchThe delicious deep fried dill pickles from The Ranch

At Big Bubba’s BBQ, what looked like a big, flat wok was perched atop a grill with the contents identified as Cowboy Potatoes. While a quick examination of said Cowboy potatoes did not immediately reveal the inclusion of ground or otherwise prepared cowboy, it occurred to me that a cowboy would most likely just throw a potato on the fire and then fish it out and eat it. This steel saucer was filled with thick slices of “skin-on” potatoes and liberally topped with chopped onion, bell pepper and unidentified spices and wading in a shallow pool of oil. While they looked tasty, this looked like a dish that required immediate consumption lest the oil congeal into an unflattering glaze. One of the well-crafted oil submersibles available at the fair can be found at The Ranch’s otherwise unassuming stand, an underground Southern favorite advertised by a sign which cryptically reads, “Fried Dills”. Deep fried pickles have the dubious quality of a high enough moisture content that the batter separates from the pickle, yet The Ranch has not only managed to create a fried dill spear that retains its coating, but does so deliciously – the light, crispy batter is almost like a panko coating, itself containing dill. The fried pickle bites off cleanly, isn’t greasy and maintains the taste of the pickle, but as a word of caution, give it a few minutes to cool down or you may end up with a deep fried palate.

The L.A. County Fair's best-kept secret - Cardinali's deep fried watermelonThe L.A. County Fair's best-kept secret - Cardinali's deep fried watermelon

The corn dog has long been a staple of county fairs, but Juicy’s has elevated the battered hot dog on a stick to new heights (or more accurately, greater lengths). Their Cowabunga Corn Dog weighs in at over a foot in length; I believe this behemoth could be brandished as a deadly weapon or alternately be used as a marital aid. Naturally there is a plethora of deep fried this and that-on-a-stick, but I was in the market for something from the wild side of the canola cornucopia. I almost didn’t give Cardinali Wood Fire Pizza a second look, after all there were no fewer than twenty large signs that advertised their specialty, including one for the world’s largest fair food (their pizza oven-sized Mambo Italiano), another Man vs. Food challenge in the vein of the Big Texan’s 5 pound steak – if you don’t finish it, you’re going home broke. Up at the top of the booth (almost as an afterthought) was a sign that simply read, “Deep Fried Watermelon on a Stick”. I was curious strictly from a physics standpoint – how were they proposing keeping the batter on an item that’s 92 percent water? I don’t know how they did it (I’d rather keep it a mystery), but the DFWOAS was outstanding – it was warm and sweet inside, with the watermelon’s delicate flesh in a semi-melted state, while the spongy batter clung to the fruit without disintegrating all over my hands. A light drizzle of fruit syrup and dusting of powdered sugar finished it perfectly; my only disappointment was that the heat from the fryer didn’t render the rind in an edible state. Cardinali’s hidden gem is unequivocally the most refreshing deep fried item I’ve ever consumed.

This is a visualization of my dreamsThis is a visualization of my dreams

Like most people, I tend to take the county fair for granted, assuming that once you’ve gone you’ve seen it all, but my second visit to the Los Angeles County Fair has proved that assumption wrong. While it’s fun to see the outcome of the food vendors’ attempts to outdo each other by creating the most outrageous food items worthy of the contempt of the AMA, the L.A. Fair is so much more than that from a cultural and educational standpoint. To underestimate the experience just wouldn’t be fair.

The Los Angeles County Fair
Fairplex
1101 W. McKinley Ave
Pomona, CA 91768
GPS Coordinates:  34°5’4.45″N 117°45’41.52″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s’ trip to the 2011 Los Angeles County Fair in Pomona, California

NOTE: Admission to the L.A. County Fair was provided by organizer of the event, who did not in any way influence the content of this article.

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