Archive for category Tasty Animals

The Bunny Hop

Bunny Chow

South Africa

Chicken curry bunny chow

Chicken curry bunny chow

Bunny chow does not come in a bag labeled “Purina”, nor is what Glenn Close was cooking in “Fatal Attraction”; in fact, despite a variety of preparations, it doesn’t appear to contain any rabbit at all. Bunny chow originated as a quick, handy and sloppy street food in Durban, South Africa and popularized by Indian migrant workers. The closest thing Americans can relate to would be the sourdough chowder bowl, except the bread is a loaf of white bread and the filling of choice is curry (originally vegetable, but gradually adding in meats). Although bunny chow’s popularity has spread throughout South Africa, Durban is still the bunny chow capital and since 2004 has been the host of the annual Bunny Chow Barometer, a contest sponsored by Coca-Cola in search of the best in the city. Bunny Chow is generally ordered by the amount you want and the type of curry (for instance, you could get a quarter chicken or a half mutton). The chunk of bread removed from the loaf and placed on top of the bunny is called the “virgin” (unsoiled by the decadent curry), but it generally doesn’t stay virgin long. Bunny chow is the perfect street food, essentially a self-contained meal that’s hearty and filling. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Offal Truth

European gastropub

Waterloo and City – Culver City, California

Waterloo and City in Culver City

Waterloo and City in Culver City

Having missed my annual pilgrimage to the UK for the past couple of years, I eagerly accepted an invitation to partake in Waterloo and City’s family-style British lunch. Just going by name alone, I imagined it to be a pub with an Underground theme (not like an air raid shelter, like a London subway station). I was surprised to find the restaurant resembling a refurbished Denny’s from the outside, but once inside it most definitely took on the air of an older European establishment that had been mostly modernized. Our group of “foodies” sat at a single large table where we were introduced to chef and co-owner Brendan Collins whose British pedigree reflects a career stretching back to his teen years in the UK. Chef Collins and managing partner Carolos Tomazos bring the relatively recent gastropub concept to Culver City with a nod to traditional British and continental European cuisine. Collins is a subscriber of the “nose-to-tail” philosophy, but instead of focusing on using every part of the pig, he stuffs, roasts, terrines, and creates pâtés from a menagerie of furry creatures. Read the rest of this entry »

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The French War of 1918

French dip sandwiches

Philippe the Original and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet, Los Angeles, CA

Philippe the Original vs. Coles Pacific Electric Buffet

Philippe the Original vs. Coles Pacific Electric Buffet

No one doubts the French dip sandwich’s city of origin – it was born shortly after the turn of the 20th century, becoming one of Los Angeles’ signature dishes. But before you start feeling sorry for redheaded stepchildren French toast and French fries, understand that that the paternity of the French dip has been fraught with doubt and controversy since farther back than anyone still alive can remember. For those who have not visited L.A. and tried it, it is essentially a sliced roast beef sandwich (with pork, lamb, ham and turkey options added over the years) in a long roll that is dipped in au jus. It is usually served with as much or as little spicy “open-your-sinuses” mustard that you care to apply – this hellish concoction kicks Chinese mustard’s ass six ways from Sunday. The sandwich has evolved over the decades, with the roll originally having been dipped in beef gravy. You would think every restaurant in Los Angeles would be offering the dish, with either a nod to its creator or arguing over patent rights, but there are only two heavyweight contenders vying for the title of “Creator of The French Dip” sandwich – Philippe’s the Original, and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet. Both were first opened in 1908, and both claim to be the inventor of the tasty sandwich. Read the rest of this entry »

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Paul Is Dead

Live octopus

Korea

The chef at Beverly Living Fish Center prepares our live octopus

The chef at Beverly Living Fish Center prepares our live octopus

Octopus Paul has been eerily accurate in predicting the World Cup winners; his cousins in fish tanks throughout Korea would do well to develop enhanced psychic abilities or they could end up segmented and writhing on a plate. Fortunately for Paul, he is too large to end up as sannakji hoe (a Korean dish involving the quick dismemberment of a small octopus with the severed tentacles delivered in a squirming mass to your table). Opponents of this type of cuisine argue that it is cruel to eat a live animal, but rest assured that Otto is very dead while his limbs are playing angry cobra on the plate. The octopus’ nervous system functions differently than in higher life forms – it is the same kind of reaction as an insect’s lost leg continuing to dance or that frog drowned in formaldehyde in biology class that starts kicking when he’s dissected. The hope is that the chef is talented and lighting fast at dispatching the octopus, but if you decide to try this unusual cuisine, you’re better off not knowing. Read the rest of this entry »

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All We Are Saying Is Give Pizza Chance

Pizza

Italy and the world

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

Although we have a tendency to think of pizza as a modern fast food phenomenon, it has been with us for centuries (if not millennia). Although other ancient cultures have had some sort of pizza-like dish, it was the Romans (later Italians) that tossed the disk of dough into our hearts and the annals of culinary history. Perhaps you’re thinking that pizza isn’t particularly trippy, unless you’re driving 90 miles per hour in order to deliver it in under 30 minutes, but consider those who take the food of the commoner to a whole new level. There are far too many variations and novelty concoctions to mention in a single article, but I’ll highlight a few of them here briefly and then defer to the visual podcast that I and friend Eddie Lin of Deep End Dining made on a recent trip to Lucifer’s in Los Angeles. It’s up to you to find Geno’s East, The Original Ray’s, Santarpio’s or your friendly neighborhood House of Pizza on your own (but I’m always available to make suggestions). Read the rest of this entry »

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Juice Box To The Rescue!

Rescue Juice truck

Ventura County, CA

Rescue Juice, open for business

Rescue Juice, open for business

In the 1990s, Megan Jackson’s primary concern was not which taco truck had the best tacos al pastor, but how she was going to beat leukemia and stay alive. Chemotherapy just seemed to make her sicker, forcing her to make a truly life-altering decision – she was going to heal by stopping the chemotherapy and through nutrition, with the focus on natural juice. Her doctors warned her against it, and asked her to sign a waiver stating that she was resorting to untested methods against their wishes (presumably to absolve them of any wrong-doing and prevent legal action after what would undoubtedly be Megan’s demise). Not only did her health improve, but also her leukemia went into remission (and has stayed there). Megan’s husband Tom became a man with a mission – to spread the news and pass the juice; he was only lacking a means to do so. Read the rest of this entry »

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Attack Of The 20-Foot Artichoke

World’s Largest Artichoke, Giant Artichoke Restaurant

Castroville, California

Grateful that the artichokes are a peaceful race

Grateful that the artichokes are a peaceful race

Castroville, California bills itself as the Artichoke Capital of the World, and as discussed in the article on the Castroville Artichoke Festival, it is well justified. When you have the chutzpah to adopt such a lofty title for yourself, it only stands to reason that you’ll want to erect a monument to establish your dominance and strike fear in the hearts of also-rans and other vegetable king wannabes. In 1963, this monument took the form of a 20-foot tall steel and concrete artichoke, the symbol of Castroville’s fame and prosperity. Of course, giant vegetable advertising didn’t hurt Ray Bei’s vegetable stand, which eventually grew into the sprawling stop for all things artichoke simply known as “The Giant Artichoke”. This includes a continuation of the original vegetable stand featuring fresh and frozen artichokes and even dried artichoke flowers. You can also get local honey (still in the honeycomb), nuts, a variety of vegetables and fresh and dried fruit. A walk through the heart of the artichoke (an empty inverted green globe hallway) takes you into the restaurant.

If there is another artichoke dish, they missed it

If there is another artichoke dish, they missed it

The front of the restaurant features a gift shop where you can purchase your standard artichoke souvenirs such as shot glasses, postcards, T-shirts, but ironically no mini tribute knock-offs of the goliath guarding the entrance with its concrete petals and metal thorns. The restaurant is simple, decorated with Artichoke Festival posters from the good old days, and the immediate expectation is you’ll be offered an artichoke as a side dish for everything on the menu. Fortunately there’s a variety of artichoke food options to choose from, or you can simply cut to the chase and get the artichoke platter which features a three-way bonanza: fried, steamed and artichoke bread. Claudia was full from the food from the festival and opted for a bowl of the cream of artichoke soup. I imagine this dish is a no-brainer, as soup is the perfect way to market the previous day’s menu surplus. The food didn’t take too long – I felt that Yoda and Kermit the Frog would have enjoyed the presentation, since it was a veritable testament to the color green. The steamed artichoke was tender without being wilted, but the fried hearts were a dark brown color, usually a sign of being left in the oily bubble bath a little long. They were crispy without being crunchy with pretty green juicy centers. I wasn’t sure what to make of the artichoke bread – it was the consistency of zucchini bread with similar flavor, but with a green hue that hinted at the possibility of food coloring doping. The soup was full of flavor, but depending on the spoonful it was sometimes difficult to differentiate from cream of broccoli until you hit upon the familiar slightly bitter aftertaste (a tell-tale by-product of the cynarine compound produced by the vegetable). The food exuded the essence of the armored vegetable and was both flavorful and relatively inexpensive. The only disappointment was the city’s missed opportunity of concocting an artichoke ice cream – it would have been a fitting desert as well as a nice feature at the festival. Don’t get me wrong here; this is road food, not haute cuisine, but when in Castroville, do as the Castrovillians do.

Not the recommended method of eating an artichoke

Not the recommended method of eating an artichoke

Should you drive from Peoria, Illinois non-stop to eat at The Giant Artichoke? No. Should you make this a stop traveling the length of Highway 101 from San Diego up through the redwood coast or on your quest to see all the California Missions? Sure, why not? Should you dine here in the shadow of the vegetable behemoth born in the days of Camelot and the New Frontier while attending the venerable Castroville Artichoke Festival? Most assuredly. It’s a great way to try a variety of artichoke preparations, see the uncontested world’s largest artichoke and attend the famous festival all in one fell swoop, crossing the three items off your California bucket list. Make that a bucket of artichokes, please.

Giant Artichoke Restaurant
11261 Merritt St
Castroville, CA 95012
GPS Coordinates: 36°45’44.81″N 121°45’10.99″W

See images of Val’s visit to The Giant Artichoke Restaurant

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WARNING! Contains Cornographic Images

Huitlacoche (corn smut)

Mexico

Dark, rich huitlacoche prior to cooking

Dark, rich huitlacoche prior to cooking

It raises a few eyebrows when I announce that I’m headed to Los Angeles’ Koreatown to check out the smut, but in this particular case it’s corn smut (huitlacoche) I’m referring to. Huitlacoche has been a staple of the Central American diet for centuries – it is essentially a fungus that infects the corn kernels, swelling them and turning them black with spores. Where American farmers would historically destroy their infected crop, Mexican growers have intentionally introduced the fungus into theirs. Huitlacoche fetches a higher market price than the healthy corn would; in the past decade, some American corn growers have added it to their crop, but it is still somewhat slow to catch on. There is some debate on the origin and meaning of the word, “huitlacoche” – the word is derived from the Nahuatl language, and there are some who roughly translate this to “raven excrement”, although the actual meaning and source are still up for discussion. Not having encountered raven excrement, I can’t attest to the accuracy of the description, and certainly not the taste. To my eyes, it has the appearance of overcooked spinach in squid ink. Huitlacoche is immensely popular in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, and the definitive source for huitlacoche in Los Angeles is Guelaguetza Restaurante, a local chain specializing in Oaxacan cuisine. Owner Bricia Lopez graciously invited me to share the dish; I had eaten at Guelaguetza previously, which readers of this blog may remember from an article about their tasty preparation of chapulines (grasshoppers). Read the rest of this entry »

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The Other Gray Meat

Scrapple

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and surrounding states

Jones Dairy Farm scrapple - OK when the butcher is closed

Jones Dairy Farm scrapple - OK when the butcher is closed

Philadelphia, you can keep your Cheez Whiz-laden shaved steak sandwiches – but you’ll take my scrapple when you pry it from my cold, dead trotters. Scrapple for me is a nostalgia food – it’s one of those dishes that was hard for me to comprehend as a child, but it was a special treat for my eastern Pennsylvanian mom. It is essentially a thrifty breakfast food, made from pork scraps and trimmings so that nothing goes to waste. German-influenced and American-born, it bears some similarity to the U.K.’s white pudding (which is neither) and German panhas. Whatever is too small for the butcher’s case or a pig part that defies identification gets ground up and cooked; a variety of grain (frequently buckwheat or cornmeal) is added to the broth and then poured into a loaf pan to solidify. The resulting gray meat brick is then sliced into thick slabs and fried, usually accompanied by fried eggs. Move over, SPAM, your grandpappy’s breakfast meat is back with a vengeance. Read the rest of this entry »

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Rise of The Triad

Korean fusion: Kogi, The Alibi Room and Chego

Los Angeles, CA

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

It has slowly and insidiously crept its way into our culture; Angelenos had been content to enjoy the hard-fought-for, all-American tradition of chowing down on tacos al carbon and barbacoa burritos from the local taco truck until upstart Roy Choi decided to infiltrate our street food society and peddle his Korean fusion cuisine propaganda throughout L.A. County. I could be wrong about the all-American thing, but not only did Choi introduce the hungry denizens of L.A. to the kimchee taco, he single-handedly turned the food truck industry into a viral sensation. Not content to rely on word of mouth, Choi discovered the power of twitter and before long tweets were barreling through the ether letting the hungry mobs know where the Kogi truck was going next; how long was it going to be there; where the next destination was. Lines were hours long, and oh, how the word spread like chili paste. Choi soon had four trucks ranging all the way into Orange County, and soon BBQ, pancake, grilled cheese , Indian, dim sum, French fry and Brazilian street food trucks were taking to the streets like an epicurean plague. No disrespect to the other wonderful and quirky food trucks that have since warmed the cockles of our hearts and intestines, but Kogi was the flame that lit this Roman candle. Choi was preparing his food out of a small kitchen in Culver City that slowly evolved into a bar where you could enjoy the same cuisine served on the trucks without having to chase them down under the moniker of The Alibi Room. Not content to simply dominate the food truck scene and change the way we look at bar food, Choi opened a third venture – a small, friendly and kitschy Korean fusion restaurant where food is served in cardboard dishes from a pegboard menu called Chego. Over a year and a half after his first Kogi truck, Choi has gained national (if not international) notice for his empire, due in great part to his foresight in using the Internet to build his kingdom. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Big Cheese, The Head Honcho…

Head cheese
Europe and the United States

Your basic head cheese feast

Your basic head cheese feast

Picture five pounds of Velveeta sculpted into a bust of Louis Pasteur. Can you see it? OK, that’s just wrong. If that’s what you imagine when you hear the term “head cheese” you’re way off base. I don’t blame you, though – the name is somewhat confusing. Let’s get one thing straight, right off the bat: there is no cheese in head cheese. Suffice it to saythat  the “head” part is slightly more accurate, but it’s doubtful that your marketing department would get very far with a product simply called “head”, unless you produce films in the San Fernando Valley. The head component of this dish is most commonly the head of a pig, but don’t expect to see Arnold Ziffel staring at you with his cold, dead eyes when you purchase this culinary oddity at your local butcher shop. I’ve wasted your valuable time with what head cheese isn’t, so out of fairness I’ll bring you up to speed with what it is. Head cheese is a meat product (usually pork) that is generally served cold and sliced as a luncheon meat. In addition to all the edible bits covering the pig’s skull (including ears, snout, and cheeks), it often contains pork tongue, trotters (pigs’ feet) and heart; normally the brain is removed. The pig’s head and accompanying body parts are spiced and cooked down to where all the meat can be easily removed, and then it is finely chopped and placed in a terrine, deep dish or pan along with the broth and chilled. The natural collagen in the bones and hide create a gelatin that solidifies the broth and holds all the tasty bits of skin, flesh and fat together in a translucent suspension that looks like the result of Jackson Pollock experimenting in sculpting. Finally, this block of exploded pork puddingstone is sliced and served with bread. Historically, it has been most popular in the UK (where it is known as “brawn”), gradually spreading in notoriety to the U.S., particularly on the east coast. Read the rest of this entry »

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Blame It On The Bossa Nova

Ta Bom Brazilian Food Truck

Los Angeles County, California

Ta Bom - it is Da Bomb

Ta Bom - it is Da Bomb

To many of the non-Portuguese speaking Angelenos who see Ta Bom coming, the name emblazoned on the front gets alliterated to “The Bomb”. Ilse Marques and her twin daughters Jackie and Julie aren’t about to go Rosetta Stone on their ass since it brings customers to their chunk of pavement, and because… well, they are the bomb. It would be erroneous on my part to call Ta Bomb a “gourmet food truck”, as there’s nothing uppity about their traditional Brazilian street food. “Ta Bom” (“It’s Good” in Portuguese) is not just a catchy name, it’s truth in advertising – this is real, hearty food of the people. A transplant from São Paulo, Marques found herself unemployed with time to consider a change of occupation. She had always wanted to cook Brazilian food, and so almost exactly a year after her life-changing experience, her truck was launched. Everything is fresh and made from scratch, and they will talk about the preparation with pride – they clearly love what they do. It’s a foregone conclusion that I wanted to try the more unusual items on the truck, and so I asked what someone walking up to a stand on the streets of Brazil would want. Read the rest of this entry »

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Smile And Say, “Cheese!”

Grilled cheese sandwiches

The Grilled Cheese Truck, The Foundry on Melrose

Los Angeles, California

The Brie Melt and Cheesy Mac and Rib Melt

The Brie Melt and Cheesy Mac and Rib Melt

Ask partners Dave Danhi (“The Big Cheese”) and Michele Grant (“Cheese Executive Officer”) of The Grilled Cheese Truck, “Why grilled cheese?” and the answer you will undoubtedly get is, “Why not grilled cheese?” In a sea of trucks serving up unusual fusion food requiring assistance from a Berlitz guide for identification, The Grilled Cheese Truck is one of the few that doesn’t require a vivid imagination and an open mind to figure out what’s on the menu. A staple, comfort food and favorite of all ages who eat, grilled cheese has immediate, recognizable appeal. But what drives someone to focus a mobile restaurant on the American classic? Well, according to Danhi, he attended a few of Los Angeles’ now legendary annual Grilled Cheese Invitationals and thought it would make a good street item after seeing the popular reaction to the contest honoring the culturally iconic sandwich. It appears his assumption was correct; The Grilled Cheese Truck was honored in the 2010 Grilled Cheese Invitational with the People’s Choice Award (not bad for only having been in operation since October of 2009). Numerous foodies and friends recommended the GCT as a “must try”, but scheduling had made it difficult – until the truck appeared prominently in the 2010 Pasadena Doo Dah Parade. Dave and Michelle sat atop the truck, tossing out foil-wrapped sandwiches as it was seemingly pulled along by rope down the middle of Colorado Boulevard. A quick trot beside the truck was enough to find out that they were going to be at Vrooman’s after the parade, and my lunch plans were set. Read the rest of this entry »

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Smoke ‘Em If Ya Got ‘Em!

Smokin’ Willie’s BBQ Truck

San Fernando Valley, California

The bright yellow BBQ truck is coming your way

The bright yellow BBQ truck is coming your way

Gourmet food trucks are popping up like diesel-powered weeds in southern California, so although I was gracious about having been offered the opportunity to preview one of the newer BBQ-themed trucks, the prospect wasn’t registering very high on the TrippyMeter®. This was before showing up at the home of owner/operator Bill “Smokin’ Willie” Kelley (sorry to disappoint anyone picturing a ganja-toking, pony-tailed country songwriter from Texas) and witnessing “the blessing of the fleet” along with his closest friends and family. In this particular case, the fleet consisted of a sole, bright yellow truck. Kelley has retrofitted this Urban Assault Vehicle with all the tools necessary to quickly and reliably cook and serve items featuring his signature Classic, Shanghai and Chipotle BBQ sauces. His family recounts with pride how almost 40 years ago, Bill’s mother crashed a neighbor’s family reunion after smelling the irresistible aroma of their barbecue sauce cooking away on the smoker. Unable to pry the recipe from their clawed death grip, she worked on reverse engineering the sauce to her own specifications. The sauce became a family treasure, and when Kelley became disillusioned after a long career in the music industry, he devoted himself to creating a marketable version of the family matriarch’s legendary sauce. After a few years, multiple attempts and some collaboration with Chef Michael Acuna, Bill found a market for the three variations on the family recipe as bottled sauces. Since then, he’s conducted classes and has published a grilling guide (with recipes, mouth-watering pictures of the grilled food items and pairing of the food with music suggestions), but recently he has chosen to diversify and peddle cuisine featuring the three blends. Read the rest of this entry »

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Selling Brazil by the Pound

Brazilian buffet

Libra By The Pound, Culver City CA

Libra, the Brazilian youngster in Culver City

Libra, the Brazilian youngster in Culver City

When I received an invitation to try Marcelo Ahn’s new Brazilian eatery, it was described as “Brazilian buffet”. I couldn’t get the image out of my head of a mutant cross between Fogo de Chao and Golden Corral or a Souper Salad with animals staked out over flames behind the sneeze shields. Fortunately for my sanity and my stomach, my fears were unfounded. Once inside the modern, gleaming eatery I was introduced to Marcelo who told me that he wanted to introduce people to the way people eat in his native São Paulo. As I stood near the front door speaking with him, my eyes caught a shallow sink with a hinged steel spigot next to where the plates are dispensed. Marcelo explained that in Brazil, sinks are placed at the front so that patrons can wash their hands prior to eating, a custom that seems to be lost to Americans. I was grateful to find out it was not there to wash your dish prior to use (not that I thought that, even for a second). The “buffet counter” runs the length of the restaurant, and there is an incredible variety of food that gets rotated on a regular basis. Brazilian cuisine is heavily influenced by European, African and indigenous cultures, and so I am told that it is not unusual to find items such as potato salad, couscous and insalata caprese on the menu. The food is served by the pound, and Marcelo states that the healthy amount of food intake is a decent mix of meat and buffet items weighing in at about a pound and a half. Latin scholars will have no problem linking the name (Libra) with its English translation (pound) and its abbreviation (lb.) which is an integral part of the logo and found throughout the restaurant, but I’m sure they still get asked what the restaurant has to do with astrology. As much as I am a big fan of a well-made potato salad, my unusual tastes lead me more towards poke salad, but the food was presented so incredibly beautifully that I had to try their take on some of the “normal” selections. The food was artistically arranged in clay bowls, and it was so attractive that I wanted to deliver a sharp smack at the back of the head to anybody who simply heaped the food on their plate. I would have done it, too, I swear. Read the rest of this entry »

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