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Little Italy

Jan 13

Posted by val in Italy, Southern California | No Comments

Novecento Pasta & Grill
Culver City, CA

The cozy Novecento Pasta and Grill in Culver CityThe cozy Novecento Pasta and Grill in Culver City

Culver City can chew up restaurants and spit them out like a spoonful of cold Spaghetti-Os, so it takes brass coglioni to elbow your way between the big dogs and have any kind of staying power. In 1995, Angela Vianello managed to squeeze her laid-back Northern Italian bistro into a room’s width space and has managed to quietly flourish in Restaurant Row. Novecento Pasta and Grill defies categorization; the restaurant literally looks like someone put a roof over a brick-walled alley between a couple of Italian buildings. The bare, mismatched granite tabletops are furnished with paper placemats, a knife and fork to each side and a fan-shaped paper napkin at each setting. It’s an unpretentious, noisy and casual place that seems like the ideal place to kick back with friends right after work and enjoy a bite, a glass of wine and some spirited conversation.

There’s no bar; the libations aren’t stored in a climate controlled vault or on some rustic wooden rack decorated with plastic grapevines – bottles of wine are simply lined up on the counter at the end of the half-height glass walled kitchen. You won’t find mixologist Leo doing triple-gainers with flaming bottles here; in fact you couldn’t find a bartender at Novecento with a private detective. There are about eight international vintages on the wine list by the bottle or glass, with as many Italian wines available; I probably would have tried a nice Chianti but I couldn’t find liver and fava beans on the menu.

The spontaneous-looking dining roomThe spontaneous-looking dining room

Also conspicuously absent was an Executive Chef; a single very friendly cook held down the kitchen duties, and in his glass cage there was no way to get away with cutting corners or cheating with pre-prepared food. Fresh baked bread that came to the table in spongy rectangles was cut off of a massive loaf on demand and served with an herbed olive oil that looked like chimichurri; since I was gunning for a substantial pasta dish I decided to avoid the temptation of going into carbohydrate overload. The waiter was patient and fielded my questions to the best of his ability; I asked him the significance of the restaurant’s name (“900″ in Italian) and he responded that it represents the turn of the century. While this may be true, it would have been the turn of the century about a millennium ago, but I imagine millenovecentonovantacinque would have cost a fortune to the sign maker.

A green minestroneA green minestrone

I decided to start out with soup; the menu offered two options – the obligatory minestrone or the zuppa del giorno (which I jokingly hoped aloud wasn’t Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup). When the waiter informed me that the soup of the day was cream of mushroom, I asked him which he thought was better. I was relieved when he suggested the minestrone, not because I actually entertained the thought of them serving Campbell’s soup, but because I couldn’t get that stupid image out of my head. The soup comes in two sizes, and though I could have sworn I ordered the small bowl, I was delivered a rather substantial portion that made me wonder if the large size came in a child’s wading pool. The minestrone was somewhat unusual in that it had a green hue to it; it was very aromatic, with a nose of leafy vegetables, parsley and basil. Most of the ingredients were green with nearly whole leaves of spinach, long green beans (instead of the usual white beans) and big chunks of zucchini; the few slices of carrot and cubes of potato seemed a mere afterthought. Also unusual was the choice of pasta – this was the first minestrone I’d ever had that contained elbow macaroni (described as “pasta tubes” on the menu). The vegetables were fairly cooked down almost to the point of dissolving; each spoonful gave the impression of drinking a fresh, green garden in the spring.

The oddly orange ravioli della NonnaThe oddly orange ravioli della Nonna

As in Italy, I was given the option of multiple courses – I only opted for a primi as the ample portions were extremely filling. It was almost a requirement that I try Novecento’s signature dish: the ravioli della Nonna. Loosely translated to “grandma’s ravioli”, I assumed this dish to be patterned after a recipe by Vianello’s grandmother. The dish contains vodka, but its application is somewhat confusing – the menu describes the inclusion of “onions flamed in vodka”; the web site states the ravioli is “marinated with vodka sauce” and our waiter stated that they apply a light dressing of vodka to the cooked ravioli before dousing with the sauce. The dish itself is a marvelous adventure – for starters, the menu promises “marinara sauce and a touch of cream” but I think in actuality they’re going for a pink sauce. What came to the table was a sea of orangey sauce containing big chunks of spinach flotsam and jetsam (my apologies if the description sounds unappetizing – I actually found the generous gobs of spinach in the sauce delightful). At the bottom of this salmon sea was a hefty portion of Goldilocks-approved pasta (not too firm, not squishy soft). Although every written description of this dish honestly conveys the ravioli being stuffed with spinach and ricotta, I was expecting some spinach dip-like blend but instead found the now omnipresent whole leaf bundle of spinach surrounded by a conservative measure of cheese. The ravioli cut well with a fork, and the spinach accounted for not only the predominant flavor but also an audible texture that added another dimension to the dish. The presence of the vodka was subtle with all the ingredients working in concert to create a memorable pasta dish.

Although full from the sizable portions, I couldn’t help asking if they had cannoli – with no pastry chef or Italian bakery on the premises, I couldn’t fault them for the negative reply. Novecento is a no-nonsense, bare-bones bistro that I would be happy to frequent with friends for a casual meal and a glass of wine. The odd brick and stone sculpture decor on the walls with the open kitchen at the end makes the restaurant a cozy, quirky neighborhood hangout, a nice place to go and get lost for a while. If you’ll be dining in a place resembling a closed alley, at least you won’t feel like you have to keep an eye on your wallet.

Novecento Pasta & Grill
3837 Main Street
Culver City, CA 90232-2619
GPS Coordinates:  34°1’28.70″N 118°23’40.64″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s dinner at Novecento Pasta & Grill

NOTE: This cost for this meal was provided by the restaurant. The content provided in this article was not influenced whatsoever by the organizer of the event.

Little Italy

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The Ukraine Girls Really Knock Me Out

Jan 2

Posted by val in Ukraine | No Comments

Roxolana Restaurant
Pasadena, California

Roxolana's spacious dining roomRoxolana's spacious dining room

Historically Roxelana was a woman of Ukrainian ancestry who rose from status as a harem slave to Sultan Suleiman I (one of the most powerful sultans of the Ottoman Empire) to becoming his wife and the sultana. By the time of her death (eight years before that of the sultan), she had become the most influential woman in the history of the Ottoman Empire, if not the world. To introduce the Southern Californian palate to the cuisine of the region takes strength and motivation, so it is befitting that Executive Chef and owner Igor Zagorodnyy and his son-in-law Alex Balinsky have chosen to christen their young restaurant after the great sultana. Ukrainian native Zagorodnyy wisely chose Old Town Pasadena for the location of the restaurant since the district is a melting pot of different cultures including Tibetan, Thai, Vietnamese, Argentinian, Spanish and Brazilian in an area easily navigable by foot.

Our waiter Caesar's smile appears to be permanentOur waiter Caesar's smile appears to be permanent

The space is airy and full of light; the brown mottled walls complement the dark wooden columns and furniture as well as tile floor and there’s plenty of elbow room throughout – the decor easily suggests a high-end Spanish or Latin American eatery.  The library-style bar at the end of the room is well stocked with imported Ukrainian beers and the wide-open space lets the staff use it as a command center. On my visit there appeared to be one member of the service staff on duty but the light mid-afternoon crowd afforded Caesar to attend to the needs of all the patrons, including being available to answer my constant annoying barrage of questions.

Salo, unctuous slabs of artery-clogging heavenSalo, unctuous slabs of artery-clogging heaven

The menu leans heavily on Zagorodnyy’s regional favorites, but doesn’t limit itself to only the cuisine of Kiev, his home (naturally you’ll find chicken Kiev of on the menu). Since Roxolana is touted as a Ukrainian restaurant, we tried to adhere to as close to traditional dishes as possible. For starters we opted for the salo, a dish that should probably come with a cardiologist’s warning label. Salo is unrendered pork fat (similar to lardo) that can be brined or cured with a variety of spices (predominately paprika). The curled shavings of unctuous hog fat arrived at the table with pickles (tomatoes, garlic and sauerkraut), fresh red onion and dark rye bread, unceremoniously presented as our “lard”. A light-handed flick of the wrist with a butter knife was all took to adhere the pure white paprika-dusted slices onto the rye. As expected, the salo melted like a fine, loose brie and the taste was literally like pig butter. Crowning the salo with various pickles took too much away from the taste, so they were for the most part eaten separately.

Roxolana's home made borschRoxolana's home made borsch

Roxolana’s borsch was not what I had expected; rather than the cold variety, the soup was served hot with enough of a tomato base to offset the earthy taste of the root vegetables and to make the color redder than usual. Big cubes of firm potato easily gave way to the teeth and although they had absorbed the crimson broth they maintained their taste. Per tradition, the soup was served with sour cream on the side and a couple of firm, crusty pampushkas that sopped up the dregs left at the bottom of the bowl.

Creamy, slightly chewy vareniki dumplingsCreamy, slightly chewy vareniki dumplings

The vareniki dumplings were hot and moist and the thick dough was cooked al dente. The menu offers a variety of fillings, but we deferred to Caesar for a traditional filling which turned out to be potato and mushroom. The fungi was diced so small as to be almost unrecognizable, although it certainly offered flavor to the dumpling, as did the sautéed onion sprinkled on top. The filling was straight out of the mashed potato handbook, although a little moister, giving the dumpling the flavor of gnocchi.

The busy but tasty Olivier 1904 saladThe busy but tasty Olivier 1904 salad

The salad options leaned more towards the international; the Cesar salad would have been better suited to our waiter Caesar’s Sonoran heritage, and the thought of ordering a Greek salad never crossed our minds. The most suitable option was the Olivier 1904, named for its inventor, Chef Lucien Olivier of Moscow’s Hermitage restaurant. The term Olivier salad (also commonly called Russian salad) was given the “1904″ surname because it is a loose tribute to a recipe published in 1904. Roxolana’s version keeps true to what is essentially a pedigreed egg or potato salad; chopped potato, hard-boiled egg, beef and chicken roll around in a mayonnaise base, accented by diced black olives and pickles with shredded carrot. The dish is crowned with a dollop of salmon caviar (which also hides inside the salad) and accessorized with cooked shrimp. As high-society as this salad purports to be, it would be perfectly at home served at a picnic or cookout; the flavors didn’t step on each other’s toes (unless you got a bite laden with pickles and olives) and the mayonnaise wasn’t present enough to be off-putting.

Grilled sturgeon, the fish that launched 1,000 caviarGrilled sturgeon, the fish that launched 1,000 caviar

The main event was the grilled sturgeon. To dine in a Ukrainian restaurant without indulging the Black Sea denizen responsible for the high-dollar caviar we’ve come to love would be unthinkable. The thick slab of fish flesh had a delightful char on it that had more flavor than the flaky, white meat within. Although similar in flavor to a mild whitefish, the size made it slightly dry; a drizzle of the accompanying sauce of garlic, chardonnay and tiny white caviar was all it took to restore the moisture end enhance the flavor. Because the sturgeon is imported from the Ukraine, it is not always available on the menu and is undoubtedly the highest priced item on the menu (at around $30).

There are no complaints about the service at Roxolana; the staff answered our myriad of questions and did so with a smile. The food was an Eastern European adventure, full of flavor and history and the atmosphere and location make this a must-visit culinary destination; I’ll be Russian down to Roxolana again very soon.

Roxolana Restaurant
34 S. Raymond Avenue
Pasadena, California 91105
GPS Coordinates: 34° 8’42.20″N 118° 8’55.52″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to Roxolana Restaurant in Pasadena, California

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Let The Chips Fall Where They May

Dec 28

Posted by val in Southern California, UK | No Comments

Mac’s Fish and Chip Shop
Santa Barbara, California

Mac's Fish and Chip Shop in Santa Barbara, CaliforniaMac's Fish and Chip Shop in Santa Barbara, California

When you’re a European-born chef trained in classical French cuisine, it only stands to reason that the obvious thing to do in order to utilize your culinary talents is to open a chip shop in Santa Barbara, California. Although British expatriate Grant “Mac” MacNaughton offers typical and traditional chippy fare (such as fish and chips with mushy peas), he also playfully takes the menu where few men have gone before. The first indication that MacNaughton has turned the chip shop on its ear is the decor – where most respectable chippies in the U.K. might barely achieve a “B” letter rating in Los Angeles county, Mac’s is sparse, crisp and neat. There’s no menu board menu with plastic letters missing here, no bins of pre-cooked fish or chips under lamps – everything is made to order and the place is spotless.

A sizeable piece of Alaskan cod in Mac's fish and chipsA sizeable piece of Alaskan cod in Mac's fish and chips

As with any chip shop worth their salt, Mac’s uses cod as their fish of choice; however, instead of the familiar Atlantic cod used for battering and frying, theirs is sourced from Alaska. All of Mac’s fried items (which include the fish and chips) are served in baskets lined with fake newsprint to recreate the British experience without getting ink all over your hands. The ample fish filet is flaky, hot and tender with only a slight residue of oil from the fryer. Bangers are also available from the menu – these are sourced locally, made especially by Shalhoob Meat for Mac’s. Naturally you can also get a side of baked beans (Heinz, of course – the most popular tinned baked beans in the U.K., courtesy of the folks from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania known domestically for their ketchup), the aforementioned mushy peas, curry sauce – everything you’d expect to find in a British chippy right down to the malt vinegar and brown sauce. Mac’s also carries homemade meat pies, including Cornish pastys, Shepherd’s pie and cheese and onion leaving little to want for the displaced Brit, save for possibly some black pudding.

The unique, homemade deep-fried haggisThe unique, homemade deep-fried haggis

As good as Mac’s fish and chips are, I’m as likely to queue up for a newspaper-full in Santa Barbara, California as for a Chicago hot dog, bowl of New England clam chowder or Tex-Mex combination plate – what got me through the open-air archway was the sign in the window advertising something I’d never seen before, even in the U.K. – battered haggis. MacNaughton makes his haggis in large batches, which can be a gamble since it doesn’t keep long once prepared.  Imagine a baseball-sized orb of the illustrious oat and organ mélange, dipped in the beer-based fish batter and deep fried to dark brown. Split with a fork, the steam rises from the gut ball’s innards and up to the nostrils to confirm that Mac’s haggis is the real deal (sans lights (lung), which the state of California bans in either fresh or imported haggis). The taste is a tad less earthy than a sturdy haggis consumed in the U.K., but it is still heady, fragrant and bursting with flavor although in its deep-fried form the inside temperature is slightly less than the surface of the sun.

The delightful mess that is the fried Reese's Peanut Butter CupThe delightful mess that is the fried Reese's Peanut Butter Cup

If you’ve saved room for dessert, Mac’s has taken a cue from New York’s The Chip Shop and offers up a variety of deep fried candy bars. With fried Snickers being old hat, I opted for what sounded like the perfect oil-submersible snack – the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. The problem with the Reese’s cup is that the peanut butter turns to lava-like goo in the Frialator which fights off the batter and results in a fried blob; as unattractive as this sounds, the taste is heaven. The fried candy bars are available simply with a light dusting of powdered sugar or nestled in a generous dollop of whipped Chantilly cream and drizzled with Ghirardelli chocolate sauce, and while it may have been overkill I opted for the dressed-up version. The dessert comes with two Reese’s cups, about twice the limit of how much of the ultra-sweet confection I could handle.

Even with the proliferation of British flags and smattering of regional signage I’m not sure I would classify Mac’s as an authentic chippy where you can shut out the masses on State Street and be transported to the Olde Country, but the classic chip shop fare served up with delightfully modern and tongue-in-cheek twist makes Mac’s a nice diversion from the standard Santa Barbara restaurant options; think of it as a chip off the old block.

Mac’s Fish and Chips Shop
503 State St
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
GPS Coordinates:  34°25’0.64″N 119°41’44.87″W

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Waiter, This Soup Is Old

Dec 21

Posted by val in Spain | No Comments

Oldest Restaurant in the World
Sobrino de Botín, Madrid, Spain

Main entrance to the world's oldest restaurantMain entrance to the world's oldest restaurant

We often sit in slack-jawed wonder when our favorite bistro goes belly-up in less than a year, or when a popular gourmet food truck disappears off the road into the golden sunset, so imagine the kind of quality and service you’d have to deliver in order to get patrons to come back repeatedly for nearly 300 years. Madrid’s
Sobrino de Botín is the epitome of that spirit, and one visit to the world’s oldest restaurant (according to Guinness Book of World Records) is all it takes to demonstrate what made it one of Ernest Hemmingway’s favorites. The restaurant was originally established in 1725 as Casa Botín by James Botín, who passed it in to his nephew upon moving on to the great Zagat guide in the sky (thus the current name, Sobrino de Botín – Botín’s Nephew). The restaurant has been so popular through the centuries that it has been mentioned in Spanish and English literature by such notables as F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Dos Passos and the aforementioned Mr. Hemingway; a young Francisco José de Goya waited tables at Botín well before his stint as painter to the Spanish Crown.

One of the dining rooms on the upper floorOne of the dining rooms on the upper floor

Sobrino de Botín is located just steps below Madrid’s Plaza Mayor; in addition to being the oldest restaurant in the world, it also remains one of the most popular. The crowd is lighter at lunchtime, but it’s best to arrive prior to the restaurant opening – you may have to wait past stated opening hours to get in, but you can probably cut them some slack since they literally have all the time in the world. The interior is a sprawling collection of rooms spanning four floors (including the brick-ceiling basement); you’ll want to explore, but you’d be best advised to wait until after your meal. Each dining room has its own sense of flavor and style, but all reflect the restaurant’s long lineage; if you can swing it, the rooms on the upper floors allow more natural light in, but there’s something to be said for eating in a room that looks like a taller and better lit version of Liverpool’s Cavern Club.

These bottles may be younger than they lookThese bottles may be younger than they look

The Spanish know a thing or two about pork – Iberian ham appears on almost every menu in the city and there’s even a shop called Museo de Jamón devoted solely to Porky’s hindquarters. There are a variety of ham appetizers on the menu, but these aren’t the big moist chunks of pork you’re used to seeing on the holiday table; think prosciutto. Botín’s specialties are cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb) and unless you want to try a variety of dishes from the menu, the perfect dining experience is to stick with the House Menu. For about 40 Euro you’ll enjoy a bowl of soup, the cochinillo asado, bread, a beer, wine or mineral water and dessert; although the baby eels are tempting, you’d better be prepared to shell out close to $150 for a dish of the tiny, ropy fish. Keep in mind that although nominal, when ordering off the regular menu as in most of Europe you’ll be charged extra for items such as bread and butter.

Sobrino de Botín's specialty - roast suckling pigSobrino de Botín's specialty - roast suckling pig

The soup is seasonal – if you time your visit right you may have the opportunity to try their sopa de ajo, which features egg poached in chicken broth and garlic, another Botín specialty; our dinner came with a crisp, rich and flavorful gazpacho. The suckling pig is roasted in the same oven (the horno de asar listed on the sign on the front of the restaurant) that’s been used since 1725; your waiter will bring a segment to the table in a clay dish and separate the meat for you. The pork is incredibly moist, still sheathed in a crackly chicharrón jacket. The contrast of the hot, tender pork with the crunchiness of the skin is heaven in your mouth – it’s easy to see why Botín is renowned for its cochinillo asado, so good it has been mentioned in the final chapter of Hemmingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”.

Roasting suckling pig in the original 1725 ovenRoasting suckling pig in the original 1725 oven

After your meal you’ll want to explore the premises – the staff is extremely accommodating and will give you access to literally every square inch of the restaurant. The closet-sized kitchen where the stone roasting oven is housed is manned by a single chef who presides over shelves filled with piglets peering over clay dishes with lifeless eyes. Even though the chef scrambles to fill orders for the succulent hogs, he’ll still gladly answer any question you have and allow you to watch to your heart’s content while he stuffs Babe into the inferno on the end of a pizza peel.

Dining in Sobrino de Botín's cavern-like basementDining in Sobrino de Botín's cavern-like basement

A visit to the wine cellar is a must, and I mean that in more ways than one. Remember, the restaurant was established back when participants in America’s Revolutionary War were still in cloth diapers, so don’t be expecting some steel-and-glass, climate-controlled, air-sealed chamber for wine storage. Passing through an iron gate that probably hasn’t been locked in decades you arrive in the bowels of the 17th century structure to find iron or wooden wine racks free-standing on dust-caked tile floors. The labels on many of the bottles are covered with such a thick layer of age that they are unreadable, and although the dust sits heavy on the racks, some of the bottles look suspiciously modern.

The sense of hospitality, attentiveness, quality of the food and moderate prices for a restaurant with such a lofty pedigree all clearly define Sobrino de Botín’s staying power and what makes it one of the world’s prime culinary destinations. The only drawback as you leave to find one of the area’s famed flamenco tablaos and a pitcher of sangria is you may just feel a little bit older.

Sobrino de Botín
Calle de los Cuchilleros 17
28005 Madrid, Spain
GPS Coordinates: 40°24’51.13″N 3°42’28.68″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to Sobrino de Botín in Madrid, Spain (world’s oldest restaurant)

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Who Cut The Cheese?

Dec 18

Posted by val in France, Switzerland | 2 Comments

Raclette, Switzerland and France

A half-wheel of raclette cheeseA half-wheel of raclette cheese

For millennia, cheese has been a part of almost every culture on earth capable of extracting milk from mammals in order to extend its shelf life. While some softer cheeses are fragile and are consumable for only a few hours, many develop thick rinds that allow them to be kept for longer periods of time. Of the latter, some of the cheeses from Switzerland and France develop a rind thick enough to allow them to be served in a style known as raclette (from the French word for scraping); several varieties of these cheeses are also called Raclette, including the French Tomme de Savoie.
For the cheese to be used for raclette it needs to be sturdy enough to withstand falling apart when heat is applied; this process melts the interior while leaving the rind intact. In days gone by, half-wheels would be placed by an open fire to liquefy the cheese – the wheel is then tilted and the melt is scraped out with a knife and onto dried meats, potatoes, bread and other easy-to-preserve items in a reverse process that is best described as “cheese fondon’t”. As the cheese cools, it solidifies on the foodstuffs it has been applied to.

Dual raclette grills working overtimeDual raclette grills working overtime

Thanks to modern science, there’s no need to lug that wheel of cheese up the side of a mountain only to have your rabbit fur hat catch fire causing you to do a triple gainer into a snow bank (unless you’re into that sort of thing); Swissmar, West Bend, Cuisinart and a bushel of other manufacturers make raclette grills for up to 8 people – some of these are even available at Wal-Mart, meaning that your grill may end up costing less than the cheese. Most raclette grills are electric; the flat top is used for grilling meats while the cheese, cut into slices, is melted in small trays that are placed underneath.

Assorted cheese-draped food for racletteAssorted cheese-draped food for raclette

Don’t underestimate the value of making your guests work for their food at your next holiday party; there’s the extra added benefit of keeping them occupied when conversation lags and giving them something to talk about when they leave. Raclette is an age-old tradition that has been updated to be incorporated into whatever festivities you happen to be celebrating allowing you to be the big cheese this holiday season.

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