Archive for category USA

The French War of 1918

French dip sandwiches

Philippe the Original and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet, Los Angeles, CA

Philippe the Original vs. Coles Pacific Electric Buffet

Philippe the Original vs. Coles Pacific Electric Buffet

No one doubts the French dip sandwich’s city of origin – it was born shortly after the turn of the 20th century, becoming one of Los Angeles’ signature dishes. But before you start feeling sorry for redheaded stepchildren French toast and French fries, understand that that the paternity of the French dip has been fraught with doubt and controversy since farther back than anyone still alive can remember. For those who have not visited L.A. and tried it, it is essentially a sliced roast beef sandwich (with pork, lamb, ham and turkey options added over the years) in a long roll that is dipped in au jus. It is usually served with as much or as little spicy “open-your-sinuses” mustard that you care to apply – this hellish concoction kicks Chinese mustard’s ass six ways from Sunday. The sandwich has evolved over the decades, with the roll originally having been dipped in beef gravy. You would think every restaurant in Los Angeles would be offering the dish, with either a nod to its creator or arguing over patent rights, but there are only two heavyweight contenders vying for the title of “Creator of The French Dip” sandwich – Philippe’s the Original, and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet. Both were first opened in 1908, and both claim to be the inventor of the tasty sandwich. Read the rest of this entry »

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All We Are Saying Is Give Pizza Chance

Pizza

Italy and the world

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

Although we have a tendency to think of pizza as a modern fast food phenomenon, it has been with us for centuries (if not millennia). Although other ancient cultures have had some sort of pizza-like dish, it was the Romans (later Italians) that tossed the disk of dough into our hearts and the annals of culinary history. Perhaps you’re thinking that pizza isn’t particularly trippy, unless you’re driving 90 miles per hour in order to deliver it in under 30 minutes, but consider those who take the food of the commoner to a whole new level. There are far too many variations and novelty concoctions to mention in a single article, but I’ll highlight a few of them here briefly and then defer to the visual podcast that I and friend Eddie Lin of Deep End Dining made on a recent trip to Lucifer’s in Los Angeles. It’s up to you to find Geno’s East, The Original Ray’s, Santarpio’s or your friendly neighborhood House of Pizza on your own (but I’m always available to make suggestions). Read the rest of this entry »

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Juice Box To The Rescue!

Rescue Juice truck

Ventura County, CA

Rescue Juice, open for business

Rescue Juice, open for business

In the 1990s, Megan Jackson’s primary concern was not which taco truck had the best tacos al pastor, but how she was going to beat leukemia and stay alive. Chemotherapy just seemed to make her sicker, forcing her to make a truly life-altering decision – she was going to heal by stopping the chemotherapy and through nutrition, with the focus on natural juice. Her doctors warned her against it, and asked her to sign a waiver stating that she was resorting to untested methods against their wishes (presumably to absolve them of any wrong-doing and prevent legal action after what would undoubtedly be Megan’s demise). Not only did her health improve, but also her leukemia went into remission (and has stayed there). Megan’s husband Tom became a man with a mission – to spread the news and pass the juice; he was only lacking a means to do so. Read the rest of this entry »

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Attack Of The 20-Foot Artichoke

World’s Largest Artichoke, Giant Artichoke Restaurant

Castroville, California

Grateful that the artichokes are a peaceful race

Grateful that the artichokes are a peaceful race

Castroville, California bills itself as the Artichoke Capital of the World, and as discussed in the article on the Castroville Artichoke Festival, it is well justified. When you have the chutzpah to adopt such a lofty title for yourself, it only stands to reason that you’ll want to erect a monument to establish your dominance and strike fear in the hearts of also-rans and other vegetable king wannabes. In 1963, this monument took the form of a 20-foot tall steel and concrete artichoke, the symbol of Castroville’s fame and prosperity. Of course, giant vegetable advertising didn’t hurt Ray Bei’s vegetable stand, which eventually grew into the sprawling stop for all things artichoke simply known as “The Giant Artichoke”. This includes a continuation of the original vegetable stand featuring fresh and frozen artichokes and even dried artichoke flowers. You can also get local honey (still in the honeycomb), nuts, a variety of vegetables and fresh and dried fruit. A walk through the heart of the artichoke (an empty inverted green globe hallway) takes you into the restaurant.

If there is another artichoke dish, they missed it

If there is another artichoke dish, they missed it

The front of the restaurant features a gift shop where you can purchase your standard artichoke souvenirs such as shot glasses, postcards, T-shirts, but ironically no mini tribute knock-offs of the goliath guarding the entrance with its concrete petals and metal thorns. The restaurant is simple, decorated with Artichoke Festival posters from the good old days, and the immediate expectation is you’ll be offered an artichoke as a side dish for everything on the menu. Fortunately there’s a variety of artichoke food options to choose from, or you can simply cut to the chase and get the artichoke platter which features a three-way bonanza: fried, steamed and artichoke bread. Claudia was full from the food from the festival and opted for a bowl of the cream of artichoke soup. I imagine this dish is a no-brainer, as soup is the perfect way to market the previous day’s menu surplus. The food didn’t take too long – I felt that Yoda and Kermit the Frog would have enjoyed the presentation, since it was a veritable testament to the color green. The steamed artichoke was tender without being wilted, but the fried hearts were a dark brown color, usually a sign of being left in the oily bubble bath a little long. They were crispy without being crunchy with pretty green juicy centers. I wasn’t sure what to make of the artichoke bread – it was the consistency of zucchini bread with similar flavor, but with a green hue that hinted at the possibility of food coloring doping. The soup was full of flavor, but depending on the spoonful it was sometimes difficult to differentiate from cream of broccoli until you hit upon the familiar slightly bitter aftertaste (a tell-tale by-product of the cynarine compound produced by the vegetable). The food exuded the essence of the armored vegetable and was both flavorful and relatively inexpensive. The only disappointment was the city’s missed opportunity of concocting an artichoke ice cream – it would have been a fitting desert as well as a nice feature at the festival. Don’t get me wrong here; this is road food, not haute cuisine, but when in Castroville, do as the Castrovillians do.

Not the recommended method of eating an artichoke

Not the recommended method of eating an artichoke

Should you drive from Peoria, Illinois non-stop to eat at The Giant Artichoke? No. Should you make this a stop traveling the length of Highway 101 from San Diego up through the redwood coast or on your quest to see all the California Missions? Sure, why not? Should you dine here in the shadow of the vegetable behemoth born in the days of Camelot and the New Frontier while attending the venerable Castroville Artichoke Festival? Most assuredly. It’s a great way to try a variety of artichoke preparations, see the uncontested world’s largest artichoke and attend the famous festival all in one fell swoop, crossing the three items off your California bucket list. Make that a bucket of artichokes, please.

Giant Artichoke Restaurant
11261 Merritt St
Castroville, CA 95012
GPS Coordinates: 36°45’44.81″N 121°45’10.99″W

See images of Val’s visit to The Giant Artichoke Restaurant

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The Other Gray Meat

Scrapple

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and surrounding states

Jones Dairy Farm scrapple - OK when the butcher is closed

Jones Dairy Farm scrapple - OK when the butcher is closed

Philadelphia, you can keep your Cheez Whiz-laden shaved steak sandwiches – but you’ll take my scrapple when you pry it from my cold, dead trotters. Scrapple for me is a nostalgia food – it’s one of those dishes that was hard for me to comprehend as a child, but it was a special treat for my eastern Pennsylvanian mom. It is essentially a thrifty breakfast food, made from pork scraps and trimmings so that nothing goes to waste. German-influenced and American-born, it bears some similarity to the U.K.’s white pudding (which is neither) and German panhas. Whatever is too small for the butcher’s case or a pig part that defies identification gets ground up and cooked; a variety of grain (frequently buckwheat or cornmeal) is added to the broth and then poured into a loaf pan to solidify. The resulting gray meat brick is then sliced into thick slabs and fried, usually accompanied by fried eggs. Move over, SPAM, your grandpappy’s breakfast meat is back with a vengeance. Read the rest of this entry »

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Rise of The Triad

Korean fusion: Kogi, The Alibi Room and Chego

Los Angeles, CA

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

It has slowly and insidiously crept its way into our culture; Angelenos had been content to enjoy the hard-fought-for, all-American tradition of chowing down on tacos al carbon and barbacoa burritos from the local taco truck until upstart Roy Choi decided to infiltrate our street food society and peddle his Korean fusion cuisine propaganda throughout L.A. County. I could be wrong about the all-American thing, but not only did Choi introduce the hungry denizens of L.A. to the kimchee taco, he single-handedly turned the food truck industry into a viral sensation. Not content to rely on word of mouth, Choi discovered the power of twitter and before long tweets were barreling through the ether letting the hungry mobs know where the Kogi truck was going next; how long was it going to be there; where the next destination was. Lines were hours long, and oh, how the word spread like chili paste. Choi soon had four trucks ranging all the way into Orange County, and soon BBQ, pancake, grilled cheese , Indian, dim sum, French fry and Brazilian street food trucks were taking to the streets like an epicurean plague. No disrespect to the other wonderful and quirky food trucks that have since warmed the cockles of our hearts and intestines, but Kogi was the flame that lit this Roman candle. Choi was preparing his food out of a small kitchen in Culver City that slowly evolved into a bar where you could enjoy the same cuisine served on the trucks without having to chase them down under the moniker of The Alibi Room. Not content to simply dominate the food truck scene and change the way we look at bar food, Choi opened a third venture – a small, friendly and kitschy Korean fusion restaurant where food is served in cardboard dishes from a pegboard menu called Chego. Over a year and a half after his first Kogi truck, Choi has gained national (if not international) notice for his empire, due in great part to his foresight in using the Internet to build his kingdom. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Big Cheese, The Head Honcho…

Head cheese
Europe and the United States

Your basic head cheese feast

Your basic head cheese feast

Picture five pounds of Velveeta sculpted into a bust of Louis Pasteur. Can you see it? OK, that’s just wrong. If that’s what you imagine when you hear the term “head cheese” you’re way off base. I don’t blame you, though – the name is somewhat confusing. Let’s get one thing straight, right off the bat: there is no cheese in head cheese. Suffice it to saythat  the “head” part is slightly more accurate, but it’s doubtful that your marketing department would get very far with a product simply called “head”, unless you produce films in the San Fernando Valley. The head component of this dish is most commonly the head of a pig, but don’t expect to see Arnold Ziffel staring at you with his cold, dead eyes when you purchase this culinary oddity at your local butcher shop. I’ve wasted your valuable time with what head cheese isn’t, so out of fairness I’ll bring you up to speed with what it is. Head cheese is a meat product (usually pork) that is generally served cold and sliced as a luncheon meat. In addition to all the edible bits covering the pig’s skull (including ears, snout, and cheeks), it often contains pork tongue, trotters (pigs’ feet) and heart; normally the brain is removed. The pig’s head and accompanying body parts are spiced and cooked down to where all the meat can be easily removed, and then it is finely chopped and placed in a terrine, deep dish or pan along with the broth and chilled. The natural collagen in the bones and hide create a gelatin that solidifies the broth and holds all the tasty bits of skin, flesh and fat together in a translucent suspension that looks like the result of Jackson Pollock experimenting in sculpting. Finally, this block of exploded pork puddingstone is sliced and served with bread. Historically, it has been most popular in the UK (where it is known as “brawn”), gradually spreading in notoriety to the U.S., particularly on the east coast. Read the rest of this entry »

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Smile And Say, “Cheese!”

Grilled cheese sandwiches

The Grilled Cheese Truck, The Foundry on Melrose

Los Angeles, California

The Brie Melt and Cheesy Mac and Rib Melt

The Brie Melt and Cheesy Mac and Rib Melt

Ask partners Dave Danhi (“The Big Cheese”) and Michele Grant (“Cheese Executive Officer”) of The Grilled Cheese Truck, “Why grilled cheese?” and the answer you will undoubtedly get is, “Why not grilled cheese?” In a sea of trucks serving up unusual fusion food requiring assistance from a Berlitz guide for identification, The Grilled Cheese Truck is one of the few that doesn’t require a vivid imagination and an open mind to figure out what’s on the menu. A staple, comfort food and favorite of all ages who eat, grilled cheese has immediate, recognizable appeal. But what drives someone to focus a mobile restaurant on the American classic? Well, according to Danhi, he attended a few of Los Angeles’ now legendary annual Grilled Cheese Invitationals and thought it would make a good street item after seeing the popular reaction to the contest honoring the culturally iconic sandwich. It appears his assumption was correct; The Grilled Cheese Truck was honored in the 2010 Grilled Cheese Invitational with the People’s Choice Award (not bad for only having been in operation since October of 2009). Numerous foodies and friends recommended the GCT as a “must try”, but scheduling had made it difficult – until the truck appeared prominently in the 2010 Pasadena Doo Dah Parade. Dave and Michelle sat atop the truck, tossing out foil-wrapped sandwiches as it was seemingly pulled along by rope down the middle of Colorado Boulevard. A quick trot beside the truck was enough to find out that they were going to be at Vrooman’s after the parade, and my lunch plans were set. Read the rest of this entry »

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Smoke ‘Em If Ya Got ‘Em!

Smokin’ Willie’s BBQ Truck

San Fernando Valley, California

The bright yellow BBQ truck is coming your way

The bright yellow BBQ truck is coming your way

Gourmet food trucks are popping up like diesel-powered weeds in southern California, so although I was gracious about having been offered the opportunity to preview one of the newer BBQ-themed trucks, the prospect wasn’t registering very high on the TrippyMeter®. This was before showing up at the home of owner/operator Bill “Smokin’ Willie” Kelley (sorry to disappoint anyone picturing a ganja-toking, pony-tailed country songwriter from Texas) and witnessing “the blessing of the fleet” along with his closest friends and family. In this particular case, the fleet consisted of a sole, bright yellow truck. Kelley has retrofitted this Urban Assault Vehicle with all the tools necessary to quickly and reliably cook and serve items featuring his signature Classic, Shanghai and Chipotle BBQ sauces. His family recounts with pride how almost 40 years ago, Bill’s mother crashed a neighbor’s family reunion after smelling the irresistible aroma of their barbecue sauce cooking away on the smoker. Unable to pry the recipe from their clawed death grip, she worked on reverse engineering the sauce to her own specifications. The sauce became a family treasure, and when Kelley became disillusioned after a long career in the music industry, he devoted himself to creating a marketable version of the family matriarch’s legendary sauce. After a few years, multiple attempts and some collaboration with Chef Michael Acuna, Bill found a market for the three variations on the family recipe as bottled sauces. Since then, he’s conducted classes and has published a grilling guide (with recipes, mouth-watering pictures of the grilled food items and pairing of the food with music suggestions), but recently he has chosen to diversify and peddle cuisine featuring the three blends. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Bird’s The Word

Ostrich
Africa and elsewhere

The original Ostrich Land sign in Buellton CA

The original Ostrich Land sign in Buellton CA

The ostrich is a laughable bird, with wings too weak to lift its body and a light-bulb shaped head on the end of a fuzzy snake of a neck. Of course should you choose to laugh at it, you run the risk of getting kicked into tomorrow. Although they are the world’s largest bird, they generally prefer to avoid confrontation. They can run about 45 miles per hour and will lay down flat to avoid detection (contrary to popular belief, they do not bury their heads in the sand to hide). It’s hard to imagine that an animal this size would need to worry about predators, but the maned cats in their native Africa could make a bucket of Original Recipe out of one in short order. It is for this reason that the ostrich has been armed with a deadly clawed-toe Kung Fu kick. They also have mankind to worry about, having been hunted and farmed for feathers, hides, oil, eggs and meat for centuries, if not millennia.

Manager Sonny Cabrales shows his ostrich offerings

Manager Sonny Cabrales shows his ostrich offerings

Ostrich farms were lucrative businesses, but towards the end of the 1900s the cost of raising them led some farmers to simply let them go; it was not unusual to hear of a hunter in Texas running into one face to face. One ostrich farm that has managed to keep in business for the past 20 years by introducing their livestock to tourists is Ostrich Land in Buellton, California. You may have seen some of their ostriches in the film “Sideways” but you don’t need a Hollywood camera crew to see them up close. Ostrich Land has a small gift shop that sells eggs (yes, they make great omelets), feathers, oil and other ostrich products. They do have some meat for sale, but they maintain that it comes from a nearby ranch. For 5 dollars, you can go out back and get a large dog food bowl attached to a metal dustpan filled with what looks like rabbit pellets to feed the birds (ostriches as well as their diminutive cousin, the emu). The ostriches saunter up to a railed platform and jam their heads in the bowl like a feathered cobra, emptying the bowl in a few minutes. The two-handed death grip is recommended as they will steal the whole contraption given half a chance. Oh, by the way, important safety tip – keep your face well out of their reach. Sure, ostrich feeding is fun until someone loses an eye.

Read the rest of this entry »

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There’s A Fungus Among Us

Wild Mushrooms (worldwide)

This is a nice example of the sweet tooth (mushroom, not me)

This is a nice example of the sweet tooth (mushroom, not me)

There are a variety of reasons mushrooms aren’t universally prized for their incredible flavor – for starters, commercially grown mushrooms are generally cultivated in soil rich in animal manure (and no, they don’t “taste like crap”, although I don’t have a point of reference). There are those who turn their nose up at mushrooms based on their lower class family members (molds and fungus), and the understandable fear of psychotic reactions, illness or death from toxic mushrooms. Mushrooms have been harvested, cultivated and eaten for millennia and harvesting them in the wild can be a delicious adventure. That having been said, I would caution (with big, bold, red letters) to only do this with someone who knows what they’re doing. Nothing ruins a meal of sweet, delicious mushrooms more that vomiting and paralysis. Read the rest of this entry »

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Torn Between Two Livers

Calf’s Liver

The Grill on The Alley, Hollywood CA

A tale of two livers - bacon and onions and Bordelaise

A tale of two livers - bacon and onions and Bordelaise

I felt like John Cleese in “The Meaning of Life” walking up to the entrance of Hollywood’s The Grill on The Alley and stating emphatically, “We’ve come for your liver!”  It was not executive chef John Sola’s liver I was after (he was using it), but the tender and delicious calf’s liver which (according to Sola) is The Grill’s signature dish. The quandary I was faced with wasn’t what I wanted, but how I wanted it prepared – as part of their “Liver Lover’s Menu” promotion, the filtering organ is offered two ways: traditional-style with bacon and onions, and with Bordelaise sauce. I don’t mind traditional, if we’re talking the traditional amphibian dish of Ban Chom, but my mission in life is to go for the unusual, so Bordelaise won. Sola explained that their calf’s liver is acquired from Marshal Farms in Pennsylvania, but a search only returned results of other restaurants who get their veal products there, and a place in New York that raises ferrets. Needless to say, the possibility that the calf’s liver and ferrets may come from the same place made it all the more intriguing. Read the rest of this entry »

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Dim Sum To Go

The Dim Sum Truck

Los Angeles County, California

Alex Chu opens for business

Alex Chu opens for business

Those of us who have enjoyed dim sum can vividly picture the shiny stainless steel dim sum cart coming up the aisle loaded with steaming hot bites of savory goodness. If you saw this 26-foot long GMC dim sum truck coming up the aisle, you’d be vividly picturing your own demise. Owner Alex Chu’s take on dim sum replaces the cart with a truck that roves Los Angeles County. L.A. has always been famous for its taco trucks (what we Boston ex-pats used to refer to as “roach coaches”), but recently these moveable feasts have been diversifying, introducing pedestrians to Korean fusion, Indian food and now dim sum. Chu has been operating the truck for about a month now, but its popularity is growing in leaps and bounds. Dim sum is typically a light Chinese meal served with afternoon tea, but Chu is introducing it to the late night party crowd who can regulate the amount of small portions that will stay down alongside their Jell-O shots, margaritas and Corona long necks. Read the rest of this entry »

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Give A Man A Fish And He’ll Make Sushi…

Sushi

Japan and beyond

If seeing dinner alive bothers you, this sign is for you

If seeing dinner alive bothers you, this sign is for you

Before we get started, any of you shrimp boat captains who down a few California rolls and beat your chest in sushi-eating triumph are going to want to sit down for this one. Don’t get me wrong, I occasionally like cucumbers and avocados wrapped in rice with canned tuna, but there’s a plethora of gastronomic wonders out there that are as much a presentation extravaganza as they are an explosion of taste. As with anything else, I’ll start you out easy.

It’s no secret that for years I shied away from sea urchin roe (uni, to you sushi aficionados). They say your first time is always the best, but trying uni in a restaurant in Southfield, Michigan is the quickest way to prove that adage wrong. The best bet is to try it near the coast, or at least in a restaurant where they take them out of the tank and open them up prior to eating. The roe (egg sacs/ovaries) are the desirable parts of the urchin (an animal that looks like a highly inedible pin cushion). Since my horrific Michigan experience I have had uni on several occasions at restaurants in the Southern California area and have fallen in love with the cool, creamy and slightly salty sea paste. Uni is fun to work with since its bright orange color makes it almost ornamental; it is mostly served sitting atop a rice and seaweed disk. We’ll come back to uni in an over-the-top presentation in a bit. Read the rest of this entry »

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I Think I’ll Go Eat Worms

Eat Bug Eat Event

Machine Project, Los Angeles, California

Cooking the wriggling superworms

Cooking the wriggling superworms

Miriam-Webster’s Dictionary defines a worm as “any of numerous relatively small elongated usually naked and soft-bodied animals (as a grub, pinworm, tapeworm, shipworm, or slowworm)”. In my mind, I picture the night crawlers I used to get to go fishing in Barton Creek, but since the term applies to the shape of these invertebrates, it also covers the creepy crawly larval stage of beetles, butterflies and moths. When I heard that Machine Project (a storefront space that experiments in technology, science, and the arts) was holding an event entitled “Eat Bug Eat”, I was intrigued. Although it sounds like the title of a Japanese monster movie, the event was held to educate people in the culture and custom of eating insects. Although I’d eaten insects many times before, from the crunchy snack-like hormigas culonas to the grassy-tasting silkworm pupae, I succumbed to the come-hither of wax moth larvae tacos. Read the rest of this entry »

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