Scandinavian food at IKEA

Best kept secret - Scandinavian food at IKEABest kept secret - Scandinavian food at IKEA

If the first thing you think of at the mention of the name “IKEA” is throwing a half-assembled particle-board desk down a flight of stairs with bruised knuckles and cut fingers, you’re not alone; for decades the name has been synonymous with low-cost, DIY furniture. For Americans, IKEA as a food destination appears to be a well-kept secret, but the Swedish furniture giant has been serving up basic Scandinavian fare since the opening of their first store restaurant in Älmhult, Sweden way back in 1960. Most of the IKEA stores have three food features: the IKEA Restaurant, Bistro IKEA and the Swedish Food Market.

The IKEA Restaurant is a gleaming, cafeteria-style chow line where diners queue up with plastic trays to order from a minimalist menu. Although the items change out seasonally, there’s usually a chicken offering and a salmon dish, but their always-available specialty is the Swedish meatballs. The meaty orbs are typically fashioned from a 50/50 blend of beef and pork, although some locations offer a pure beef halal variety. According to IKEA’s Real Swedish Food Book, the meatballs are fried and contain potato and rusk flour in addition to the meat. The gravy is advertised as “cream gravy”, but the IKEA Restaurants in Southern California appear to be topping their balls with brown meat gravy. Although there seems to be a random haphazardness in scooping the meatballs onto the plate, the menu dictates a ration of precisely 15 (confirmed by using my rudimentary math skills at the table). The obligatory side dish is mashed potatoes, and the meal is accompanied by a generous glop of lingonberry jam (a red berry that appears to be the national fruit of Sweden). As anyone who has accessorized their lamb with mint jelly will tell you, the sweetness gives a nice contrast in texture and taste to the meat, and when you gather up a forkful of meatball, potatoes, gravy and jam and shovel it into your yap, your taste buds will frolic like they’re on a Swedish playground. While I’m certain you can find Swedish meatballs elsewhere that elicit the image of Wagyu cattle in antic play on the snow-dusted grass along the sides of the Iddefjord, you’d be hard pressed to find them of equal quality and taste at a mere four bucks. Naturally, you’ll be self-seated on the most stylish and functional cafeteria furniture you can put together with a screwdriver and conveniently included crescent wrench. IKEA hosts seasonal festival dinners in the Restaurant, which closes early for the occasion. Attendance at these all-you-can eat food fests are by ticket only, and these regularly sell out quickly, in part due to their ridiculously low price (around $10 per person). These include their annual Crawfish festival in August, an Easter smörgåsbord and a Christmastime julbord.

Meatballs, knäckebröd, tårta chokladkrokant and lingonberry drinkMeatballs, knäckebröd, tårta chokladkrokant and lingonberry drink

Bistro IKEA is more suited to the parents who just purchased little Timmy’s race car bed with the rug rats in tow. While those wishing to immerse themselves in Scandinavian culture may scoff at the Americanized menu, Timmy’s dad will appreciate that he can feed their little family of four for under $10. There’s no worry about how the picky little brats will decide what to devour – the only entrees on the menu are hot dogs and slices of pizza (each weighing in at a respectable buck a piece). Follow that up with a cinnamon bun or soft-serve non-fat frozen yogurt (also, you guessed it – a buck apiece) and drinks for a dollar or less (except for the ultra-expensive bottled water, around $1.25). The hot dogs don’t suck as bad as the tube steak that’s been rubberized on the heat rollers at the 7-11 for a day and a half, and at less than half the price of the red hots at Costco, it’s one of the best bargains in town. Since the theme of this article is Scandinavian food, you can safely ignore the Bistro IKEA, only acknowledging it as you pass through to get to the grocery area.

The dining area at IKEAThe dining area at IKEA

The Swedish Food Market is your one stop shopping destination for all your Scandinavian needs. Here, knäckebröd (crisp bread) is stacked to the ceiling like the Great Wall of Stockholm in more varieties than you ever knew existed (if, in fact, you even knew knäckebröd existed). Think of knäckebröd as a rye flatbread, the Swedish version of matzo, with each package plainly labeled in Swedish to let you know what flours and grains have been added. There are freezer cases packed with crawfish (the Swedes typically eat these cold), salmon, sausage, IKEA’s signature meatballs and a variety of frozen foods that will help you prepare your own Scandinavian feast at home faster than you can say, “Smörgåsbord, smörgåsbord, børk, børk, børk!”. You can stock up for school lunches with juice boxes filled with lingonberry or elder flower juice (and who doesn’t love that?) or bottles of the syrup to make gallons of Scandinavian Kool-Aid. Mom can also pick up a bottle of glögg to nip from after that aromatic morning cup of UTZ Certified coffee, also conveniently available in the Market. There’s a wide variety of snacks including chocolate, ginger snaps, Danish cookies and even Swedish pancake mix, and the refrigerated section with some unusual and somewhat scary items such as fish and crab in what looks like toothpaste tubes and a variety of canned and jarred herring and sardines. Late in 2011, IKEA introduced their own line of food available in the Market to augment known and familiar Scandinavian brands.

A basket of Scandinavian treats from IKEAA basket of Scandinavian treats from IKEA

The Market is a relatively inexpensive source of experimental cuisine for a bizarrenivore such as me. On the advice of a Finish co-worker, I made a shopping sortie to the Swedish Food Market and returned home victorious with the spoils of my foray: a cow’s milk Prästost cheese, knäckebröd, a can of Abba Matjes pickled herring, a couple of tubes of Kalles spreadable fish roe (“kaviar”), elderflower juice boxes and a rather ominous looking bag of Nordic Sweets salted licorice Swedish fish. Since all of the items were ready to eat, I had a ready-to-eat feast prepared in a tidy little five minutes. As I sampled each item, I noted how the Scandinavians appear to love the co-mingling of sweet and salty together, a combination that somehow combines in my mouth to form sour. The saltiness of the cheese was a mild surprise, but I was totally unprepared for the saline onslaught that the school of licorice fish presented. Likewise, the fish egg toothpaste tasted like it was made with roe harvested from the Dead Sea, and even the cheese was useless in cutting the salinity.

Outside of Europe, cuisine representative of Scandinavia is scarce, so it’s comforting that a short trip to your friendly neighborhood IKEA is all that’s required to either dine in or grocery shop for a little bit of culture from the original Great White North. Now if they only had reindeer meat…

GALLERY: See images of Scandinavian food at IKEA

VIDEO: Watch Val assemble a Scandinavian snack with food from IKEA

 

SWEA Swedish Christmas Fair

Shrine Expo Center, Los Angeles California

Vendors at the SWEA Swedish Christmas FairVendors at the SWEA Swedish Christmas Fair

Back in 1979, Manhattan Beach, California resident Agneta Nilsson decided to host a Christmas celebration in her home for Swedish friends and relatives. The event became so popular that it had to be moved to larger venues and has not only become a tradition in Southern California, but worldwide. Nilsson founded the Swedish Women’s Educational Association (SWEA) as the benefactor of the annual fundraising event that is held every year on or around December 13, the Christian feast day of Italian Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy). As part of the celebration (held since 2007 at the Los Angeles’ historic 1926 Shrine Auditorium) the Swedish tradition of a procession of light that dates back to the 1700s has been an integral part of the event. A young woman is chosen to portray Santa Lucia, who leads a column of girls in white dresses and carrying a single candle each while singing Teodoro Cottrau’s Santa Lucia. The girl portraying Lucia also wears a wreath of lit candles in on her head symbolizing both the flame that could not burn Santa Lucia and light during the time of year in Scandinavia where the days are almost totally dark. At the 2010 event I attended with friend and fellow food writer Eddie Lin, Swedish singer and songwriter Emma Ejwertz (who led the chorus in traditional Swedish and American holiday songs) portrayed Lucia. The voices of the choir filled the hall with the sound of angels; the singers in the pageant are trained each year by choirmaster Lina Pasqua.

Lucia leads the choir in holiday songLucia leads the choir in holiday song

In addition to the festival of light, booths and carts selling imported food and gifts as well as hand-made items were set up on the front half of the main floor. It’s your one stop shopping destination for Advent stars, wooden ornaments, Swedish ales and glögg, baked goods and holiday linens, but wait, there’s more – there were a few stalls selling what looked suspiciously like the types of items hawked by Ron Popeil on late night television commercials. The stage where the raffle and festival of light were held was placed at the back of the hall with large, round communal tables covered with red and green tablecloths set up in front of it for dining and watching the performances. The cloth table coverings (festive as they were) seemed a bit out of place, as the available food was served on Styrofoam or paper plates with plastic utensils.

Glögg, the perfect holiday drinkGlögg, the perfect holiday drink

The food was mostly homemade, with the vendors lined up along the far right wall. Each food vendor had its own line, but it was slightly confusing as many of the patrons thought that the line at the first food booth serviced all the booths. The first two large covered booths sold Zoégas Swedish coffee (which is said to be the national drink of Sweden, a fact that must frustrate Swedes since the climate is too cold to grow coffee) and baked goods including freshly made cakes and cookies; just past these was the bar where your average American mixed drinks were available in addition to glögg for five dollars a cup. Glögg is a mulled wine beverage served during the holidays that will warm your innards and dull your senses – it is insidiously sneaky, posing as a hot, sweet beverage but could result in bizarre acts involving elf costumes and live reindeer. The glögg being sold was made from scratch, blending port and burgundy wines with cinnamon, sugar, cloves and cardamom, and then garnished with raisins and almonds. It was sweet and spicy and after half a cup I wanted to go outside and shovel snow (which is close to impossible in downtown Los Angeles).

Janssons frestelse with knäckebrödJanssons frestelse with knäckebröd

The first substantial food booth featured a Swedish meatball platter with boiled potatoes, lingonberry sauce, brown gravy and a very basic salad; an open-faced shrimp salad; and a traditional Swedish dish called Janssons frestelse (Jansson’s temptation). Annie Andersen’s sinful-sounding Jansson’s temptation was a casserole-style dish made with potatoes, anchovies, butter, cream and onions that had the texture of a baked macaroni and cheese. The potatoes were still firm but with creaminess and an earthy kick from the anchovies. It was a delicious cold weather dish, but I wasn’t clear on the temptation aspect of the name. The second food booth had a single item, simply billed as “hot dogs”. This was obviously not the best marketing strategy, since after conversing with the cook we discovered that these were, in fact, wieners. Although Sweden manufactures their own wieners, the ones being hawked with the casual abandon of ballpark franks were imported from Germany with natural casings that provide a satisfying snap with each bite. In addition to the “hot dog”, you could also purchase a lingonberry drink, but if you missed this year’s event, fret not – you can stock up at your local IKEA.

Chef Andreas Volmefjord presents the herring plateChef Andreas Volmefjord presents the herring plate

Food Booth #3 was hosted by the Los Angeles Church of Sweden, offering the ever-popular Swedish pancakes and a fragrant, thin pea soup containing shredded carrot, but we bypassed those delights for the hard-core Swedish fare at Volmefjord Catering‘s booth. There was no line at their booth, which was tucked into the far corner of the auditorium, yet they seemed to have the most interesting dishes available. We turned down a very colorful open-faced red beet salad and meatball sandwich that looked more like art than food and an equally decorative gravlax sandwich with a mustard sauce for the holy grail of Swedish cuisine – the herring plate. This plate featured three different preparations of herring and a generous slice of Västerbotten cheese. Chef Andreas Volmefjord started with the basic herring aged in vinegar and then using the same fish added a cream sauce to one batch and a mustard-based sauce to the third. The standalone herring was only slightly sweet with the distinct taste of the fish slightly muted by the pickling; the cream variety was cool and smooth and the batch with the mustard sauce was slightly spicy with out being overpowered. The plate came with a slice of knäckebröd (crisp Swedish flatbread) that tasted astounding when topped with a little of the herring and a nibble of the cheese.

Ginger snaps and Zoégas coffeeGinger snaps and Zoégas coffee

After recently attending a Norwegian lutefisk dinner and the annual Swedish Christmas Fair, I have developed a newfound appreciation for Scandinavian culture and cuisine and am grateful that this is available about as far from the region as you can get in sunny Southern California. I hope to experience more of what Denmark has to offer besides what I’ve encountered in Solvang, California as I work towards the Finnish.

The Annual SWEA Swedish Christmas Fair
The Shrine Expo Center
700 W 32nd St
Los Angeles, CA 90007
GPS coordinates: 34°1’23.90″N 118°16’54.90″W

See images from the 2010 Swedish Christmas Fair at Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, CA

NOTE: Admission to the SWEA Swedish Christmas Fair was provided by the event’s organizer. The content provided in this article was not influenced whatsoever by the organizer of the event

 

Lutefisk

Norway

A lutefisk dinner as traditional as it getsA lutefisk dinner as traditional as it gets

Some foods strike fear into the hearts of mortals; with each cautious bite we visualize the grim reaper taking us one step farther down the black velvet carpet towards a carriage drawn by the four horsemen of the apocalypse: fugu, poke salad, seso and lutefisk. Of the four, lutefisk is probably the least understood. The Norwegian cod delicacy has been eaten for so long that no one really knows how the unusual preparation came about; the process was most likely an invention of necessity and convenience. The cod is filleted and hung to dry where it ends up looking like a long strip of sycamore bark; these are bundled like wood for storage or transportation. It is the process of reconstituting the fish that frightens people – in Norway, the cod is soaked in plain water over a period of several days with the water replaced on a daily basis. The fish is then soaked in water with the addition of lye for several more days. You heard right, folks – lye, the old-time caustic component of laundry soap. Although many Norwegians will deny this, if the fish is left too long in the lye solution, the fish is inedible, and eventually the fat in the fish will be converted to soap which the Finnish call saippuakala (“soap fish”). During the lye soak the fish will swell to multiple times its original size; after the proper amount of time has passed the lutefisk is rinsed and soaked again for up to a week in plain water which is changed regularly. This is the epitome of a “kids don’t try this at home” dish – most people who prepare the fish do so from lutefisk carefully frozen and packed by trained professionals. Even when lutefisk is prepared properly, it is recommended that sterling silver cookware or utensils should not be used as the fish will ruin it. The fabulous explanations of how the dish was created truly are fish stories – they range from the Vikings invading Ireland having their dried fish poisoned but taking a liking to the caustic dish to the fish having caught fire on wooden racks and then cleaned to be eaten. The simplest explanation is usually the best – the lye helped make the dish go father by swelling it up (as it does for hominy); old recipes call for lye created using birch ash, limestone, and water. The same dried cod is exported from Norway for use in similar dishes using less caustic preparation such as baccalà (Italy) and bacalhau (Portugal).

The dried cod destined to become lutefiskThe dried cod destined to become lutefisk

Lutefisk has come to be known as a food of the people; where in the old days it was eaten all year round it can now be found on the menu primarily during the holiday season (November through Christmas). Lutefisk dinners are common in the U.S. in areas where there are large populations of Scandinavian immigrants such as Minnesota, however the Sons of Norway in Van Nuys, California host an annual lutefisk dinner that has been an tradition at the Norrøna Lodge for over 40 years. The lodge was founded in 1942, and they have been serving the dinner at their current location since 1956. For the dinner, the lodge sources its lutefisk from Olsen Fish Company in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The fish is caught and dried traditionally in Norway during the winter and then shipped to Olsen Fish Company where it is reconstituted. After the long reconstitution process, an average of 700 pounds of the lutefisk is then sold wholesale to the lodge, packed and shipped for the dinner. One of the lodge members (Bob Olsen) has been cooking the fish for 40 years, 30 of them at the annual dinner. Cooking lutefisk is an art that takes awhile to master – boil it too long and it literally turns into a gelatinous soup; not long enough and it becomes chewy. In addition to cooking up enough lutefisk to feed 400 people, the lodge also bakes 375 pounds of pork and beef Norwegian meatballs (and they are quick to point out that these are not Swedish – they’re better); the meatballs were formerly mixed with lamb, but are still made with breadcrumbs, dry milk, nutmeg and spices and individually hand-rolled. Each table is stocked with limpa (a Swedish rye bread, with citrus peel and anise) sourced from Berolina Bakery in Glendale, California and lefse, a traditional flatbread made from potatoes and served topped with butter and brown sugar. The meal also came with mixed vegetables, a fresh, light coleslaw and small boiled potatoes. Dessert was on the table even before the meal was brought out – each setting featured a cup of creamy rice pudding with sugar, butter, whipped cream and lingonberry sauce with a rolled krom krage cookie on the side.

Bob Olsen prepares the lutefisk for cookingBob Olsen prepares the lutefisk for cooking

Dinner is served communal style at big round tables. In case you assume that the consuming of lutefisk is somewhat hazardous to your health, consider that the majority of the people attending their dinners were probably septuagenarians and older, and these people could put away the lutefisk like it was going out of style (or being banned). Two of the “younger” people at our table matched us fish for fish – we easily knocked back six or seven fillets each. The taste was remarkably mellow, although there was a slight chemical aftertaste. Lutefisk is rumored to have an offensive odor, but it wasn’t present in this case. The texture of the fish on the platters varied, and I found that I preferred it slightly mucilaginous where it dissolved on the tongue with no chewing required; it was easy to identify simply by shaking the platter. The traditional sauce of choice is simply clarified butter, but in recent times a less traditional cream sauce with nutmeg has been used and gravy boats of the creamy topping were provided at each table. Eddie Lin (who I had joined for dinner) referred to the lutefisk as “poor man’s lobster” because of the texture of the firmer preparation, although lutefisk and monkfish (the original “poor man’s lobster”) now are pricier than American lobster. I asked someone at the table what the proper traditional method of prepping the lefse was – it involved smearing a small pat of butter and sprinkling brown sugar on top, but one of our fellow diners went renegade and poured the clarified butter over an anthill of brown sugar to where you could barely see the lefse.

Aquavit that really packs a punchAquavit that really packs a punch

After dinner we walked out behind the dining hall where Scandinavian gifts were available for purchase as well as a bar where one could purchase a shot of traditional after-dinner aquavit (akvavit). This golden beverage is made from potatoes similar to vodka with a 40% alcohol kick. Akvavit is enhanced with a variety herbs, spices, and fruit extract, but smooth as the drink is it is all business. The drink takes on more of a golden color as it ages in oak. The general rule of thumb is that the darker the color, the longer it has been aged, or it has been aged in “young” casks with more resin content, although some aquavit uses artificial coloring. Lutefisk is not the kind of thing you’d want to eat on a daily basis, but at the annual Sons of Norway lutefisk dinner I think I may have redefined the term “all-you-can-eat”. Ryan (one of the younger cooks in the kitchen) was wearing and embroidered apron that read, “Take the risk – try lutefisk”, and I couldn’t agree more. Don’t let fear or rumors prevent you from experiencing this tasty and unusual dish. The taste, texture and experience of sharing this special meal with the members of the Norrøna Lodge is something I won’t soon forget – I’ll be back next year and that’s no lye.

Sons of Norway
Norrøna Lodge #50
14312 Friar Street
Van Nuys, California 91401
GPS Coordinates: 34°11’7.96″N 118°26’41.51″W

See images from the annual Sons of Norway lutefisk dinner at the Norrøna Lodge in Van Nuys, California

NOTE: This cost for this meal was provided by Norrøna Lodge #50. The content provided in this article was not influenced whatsoever by the organizer of the event.

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