Posts Tagged Texas

Ten Years After

A look back on how 9/11 changed me and the world

Daughter Juli on a birthday trip to NYC including the WTCDaughter Juli on a birthday trip to NYC including the WTC

Remember 9/11… I believe that’s the catchphrase, along the lines of “Remember the Alamo”, “Remember the Maine”, or “Remember Pearl Harbor”. Although I admit I will occasionally forget my wallet, or that I’m supposed to pick up coffee filters, there aren’t enough hours of therapy or liters of libations that would ever allow me to get the images of two smoldering 100-plus story towers collapsing into a burning pile of torn and twisted metal out of my head. Ever.  The words are almost accusatory, as if our patriotism has been called into question (as it was in the weeks and months following that horrendous day), and they might have as much impact as their San Antonio, Havana and Honolulu predecessors were we not living in an age where the media brings events into our living rooms and offices as they happen. Who will ever forget the non-stop video loops of the second plane screaming into the tower, the poor souls who decided to take control of their own destiny by jumping from the blazing infernos, or people in the streets scrambling for safety in what looked like a mushrooming cloud of ash from Vesuvius as the towers fell? Forget 9/11? Not likely in my lifetime.

Our view from the top of the World Trade CenterOur view from the top of the World Trade Center

Like most Americans, I remember exactly where I was at 8:46 A.M., September 11, 2001 – I was at a customer site in Montréal preparing to conduct training after flying in to Montréal-Trudeau (then Montréal-Dorval) from my home in Austin, Texas the previous evening. The manager onsite interrupted the training to inform me that “an accident occurred involving a plane and the World Trade Center”, but we resumed training; approximately 15 minutes later he returned to state that the second tower had been hit. I asked for a short break to make some phone calls (my brother had been scheduled to fly from Boston to Los Angeles that same morning, and I was concerned for a co-worker that I had worked with for 6 months in New York City as well as our customers there); unfortunately communication was impossible which left me with grave concerns for everyone I knew in and around New York City. The manager tried to get updates off the Internet, but all sites were down to a crawl. I eventually heard from the people I was concerned about and although shaken and bewildered, continued with the training session.

My access pass to the 95th floor of Tower 1 on April 17, 2001My access pass to the 95th floor of Tower 1 on April 17, 2001

I never felt so helpless in all my life. My country was clearly under attack, and I was in another country (albeit a stone’s throw from the U.S.).  Japanese Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto is often misquoted as having said of the attack on Pearl Harbor that they had “awakened a sleeping giant”; well, my friends, on September 11th we were not nudged awake, we were kicked in the teeth. The Canadians I came in contact with on that day and in the week to follow were beyond sympathetic, comforting and supportive; the Maple Leaf was immediately lowered to half-mast and anyone who discovered my citizenship provided a handshake, a drink and an arm across the shoulder. The two other customers I was scheduled to train later in the week called to say that they would completely understand if I had to return to the States and reschedule the training, but since all flights in U.S. airspace had been grounded, I offered to adhere to the schedule. Montréal is a warm, wonderful and historic city with an Old French charm and a metropolitan appeal, but the mood throughout the city was quiet and somber as television screens in every restaurant and bar were fixed to the events unfolding in New York, Pennsylvania and Washington D.C..

Ten House (Engine/Ladder Company 10) in the former shadow of the WTCTen House (Engine/Ladder Company 10) in the former shadow of the WTC

I was originally scheduled to fly back into AUS on the evening of September 14, but I was advised to try to arrange it for Saturday morning since by that point international travelers were told to allow three hours prior to boarding. Hotels were at a premium since commercial U.S. flights in the air at the time of the attack were diverted to Toronto, Montréal and Halifax which meant that there wasn’t a room available in any of those cities, but fortunately I was already booked for the week. When I arrived at the airport on Saturday, the line of passengers ran out the door – I asked if it was the line for American Airlines but was told it was for Air Canada. I made my way to an empty American counter, flashed my passport, was whisked through customs and security and found myself at the gate with 2 hours and 45 minutes to kill before my flight. Since security was an issue, none of the airport concessions were open (no one knew what could or could not be easily purchased and used as a weapon aboard the plane). The flight home was the second tensest I had ever been on (the first being my flight to Chicago a week later when the plane flew about 1,000 feet directly over Sears Tower).

Yes, that is exactly what you think it isYes, that is exactly what you think it is

My story isn’t a testament of bravery or letter of thanks to a supreme being for allowing me to survive those harrowing events; there are thousands of people who escaped those calamities with their lives, and countless others who selflessly gave theirs running into the maddening conflagration to help others. The events that day changed my life and my outlook on it forever, as it undoubtedly changed the lives of every American. Before I describe how it affected my philosophy, I’ll give you a little background on my protracted affair with the city of New York. In 1968, my father drove the family from Boston to New York City; I was a knee-high sprout of 8 at the time. I don’t recall where we ate or stayed on that trip, but I will always remember three events: visiting the top of the then-tallest building in the world, the Empire State Building, climbing to the top of the endless spiral stairs of Lady Liberty to gaze out from the crown in the 103° heat, and hearing my father speaking Spanish to a man in Battery Park who was trying to communicate with us in what seemed like gibberish at the time. I was instantly hooked on the sense of adventure and absorbing the sights, smells, sounds and tastes of what seemed like another world. When my daughter Juli was approximately the same age, I rewarded her on her birthday with a similar trip, only in February the outside temperature was about 100° cooler. The itinerary was almost the same, except our visit to the observation deck of the tallest building in the world was in the World Trade Center.

Outside the temporary World Trade Center PATH train station in 2007Outside the temporary World Trade Center PATH train station in 2007

I regularly returned to the city for work and for recreation; from late 2000 through mid-2001 I worked as a sales engineer covering New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania (I fondly look back on this as the time I lived in New York and visited my home in Austin on weekends). On April 17 of 2001 we called on a customer (Marsh) whose offices were located on the 95th floor of Tower 1. Our meeting was held in a grand conference room featuring wall-to-wall, ceiling-to-floor windows, and when the customer arrived for the meeting I remarked, “How do you get anything done with a spectacular view like this?”. I can’t even begin to empathize with the sheer horror of gazing out that same window some five months later to the image of an oncoming American Airlines Boeing 767. I later found out from the sales representative that the people we met with were not among the dead or injured, although Marsh lost several hundred employees that day. I am painfully aware and eternally grateful that a schedule change of 5 months by either the terrorists or the customer would have meant the difference between me writing this article and someone else writing it in memoriam.

The September 11 memorial on the side of Ten HouseThe September 11 memorial on the side of Ten House

I’m sure you’re wondering by this point how any of this has any relevance to a travel and food blog, so this is where I relate how the events on that day altered my perspective, or rather strengthened my values in this regard. In my encounters with people in my travels, I often hear them say, “You’ve been to more places here than me and I’ve lived here my whole life”, or alternately, “I’ve always wanted to see Cadillac Ranch, but heck, it’ll always be there”; I usually respond to the latter with, “Have you been to the World Trade Center?” If I’ve learned nothing else from this fateful day, it’s that if you have always wanted to see something, see it. Now. Find a way to make it happen. Dine at The Cave Restaurant in Richland, Missouri; have a ripper at  Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, New Jersey; walk through the gift shop in the belly of the apatosaurus at Bell’s Dinosaurs in Cabazon, California. Do it and savor every moment; drink it all in until it courses through your bloodstream and intoxicates you. As Pascal (Ian Holm) affirmed with vigor in “Big Night”, “Bite your teeth into the ass of life and drag it to you!” Even Schlitz used to urge us to grab for all the gusto you can get – live like every day is your last, since we never really know how true that can be.

One of the flags found in the ruins of the World Trade centerOne of the flags found in the ruins of the World Trade center

My last word on the subject is about remembrance. I sincerely doubt that anyone will forget the events of 9/11, but sadly we seem to have forgotten one of the most wonderful by-products of this dark and dismal day – how to treat each other with compassion and kindness. In the days following September 11 neighbors, co-workers, family and strangers found a common bond and relied on each other to get us through the valley of darkness. New York City, one regarded as one of the rudest cities in America (if not on Earth) was transformed into a place where everyone had a voice; our differences were put aside and we offered support and understanding where we could and offered tolerance where we didn’t know what else to do. We were all neighbors and this tragedy somehow brought us all closer together. In the ten years since that day, we seemed to have put that all aside in exchange for rancor, greed and a lack of humanitarianism. I only hope that like other lost memories we can find a way to get that back. Alvin Lee once sang, “I’d love to change the world, but I don’t know what to do” – so I’ll leave that up to you.

Peace and love,

Val

Tribute WTC Visitor Center (where pictures of objects from the ruins were taken)
120 Liberty Street
NY, NY 10006

Ten House (FDNY Engine Co. 10, FDNY Ladder Co. 10)
124 Liberty Street
New York City, New York 10006
GPS coordinates: 40°42’35.44″N 74° 0’44.58″W

GALLERY: See images from and of the World Trade Center before and after 9/11

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Executive Decision

Cooper’s BBQ, Llano, TX

Ben’s Chili Bowl, Washington, D.C.

Bens Chili Bowl and Coopers BBQBens Chili Bowl and Coopers BBQ

Checking out a restaurant that has been visited by a U.S. President comes complete with a variety of risks, including whether the food lives up to the hype and if an hour-plus wait in line is worth it in the long run. Bill Clinton made it easy – the answer to both of those questions regarding his penchant for fast food is clearly “No”; however, two places where both of these referendum questions receive a unanimous “Yea” vote are Cooper’s Pit BBQ in Llano, Texas (just north of Austin) and Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington D.C. Both restaurants have been around for over half a century and have had their share of celebrity visits, and the legendary quality of the food has prompted long lines at both for decades. People will be arguing for decades who was a better president, George W. Bush or Barack Obama, but one thing is for certain – the clear winner is the diner who visits Cooper’s or Ben’s Chili Bowl.

Son of founder Ben Ali mans the grillSon of founder Ben Ali mans the grill

We’ll start with Ben’s, a tiny restaurant with a diner atmosphere opened by Ben and Virginia Ali in August of 1958. The restaurant is on a stretch of U Street in Washington D.C. formerly known as “Black Broadway” because of its association with the musical and theater arts. Built next door to the Lincoln Theater, the restaurant has had numerous visits throughout the years from the likes of Miles Davis, Martin Luther King Jr. and Bill Cosby; it was one of the few buildings that escaped the fury of the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr. Ben’s had experienced fluctuating popularity over the years but it was a visit from President Elect Barack Obama in January of 2009 that turned Ben’s into an international phenomenon. According to the staff at Ben’s, Obama arrived with Washington D.C. Mayor Adrian Fenty in tow, requiring the front doors to be locked with the patrons still inside. The newly elected president sat at one of the tiny tables and ordered a half-smoke (a spicy smoked sausage composed of half beef and half pork and then grilled) with chili.

Knocking back a half smoke with chili and cheeseKnocking back a half smoke with chili and cheese

On my visit (about two weeks afterwards) the line stretched out into the 20-degree cold and ran down to the end of the block. The man standing in front of me in line admitted that he was a frequent patron, and although he told me what Obama had eaten on his visit, I asked him what his recommendation was – apparently, he always orders the half-smoke with chili and cheese, which sounded pretty good to me. While Claudia waited in line to order I grabbed the first available table I could find, still littered with the previous diner’s refuse. The staff member who cleaned the mess up said to me, “You’re sitting at his table”, pointing to the Presidential Seal on the mirror behind me. I was not only sitting at his table, I was sitting in his seat, but I didn’t think he’d be popping in to kick me out any time soon. The sausage was delicious – hot and hearty, the grilled casing having just the right snap and the coarsely ground meat inside providing a nice chewy texture. The soft bun soaked up a considerable amount of the juices from the chili and the whole thing was a rich, glorious mess. Ben’s can be considered “doubly presidential” after having recently served France’s President Sarkozy and his family there.

A variety of meats straight from the pitA variety of meats straight from the pit

Cooper’s Pit BBQ in Llano, Texas was actually the second restaurant to be opened by the Cooper family; George Cooper opened the original BBQ joint in 1953 in Mason, Texas (it is still opened, but no longer affiliated with what is becoming a chain). George’s son Tommy opened the second location in Lake Buchanan (which later moved Llano) and ran the place until his death in a hunting accident; at that time the business was sold to Terry Wooten, who had worked there as a teenager. Cooper’s had long been a word-of-mouth experience in Texas’ Hill Country – since the pits are fired up early in the morning, it’s not uncommon to find huge lines waiting outside for the lunchtime opening (when the meat is gone, it’s gone). George W. Bush frequented Cooper’s in Llano (the Spanish word for “plain” but pronounced locally as “Lan-O”) while he was governor of the Republic of Texas and photos from his frequent visits can still be seen on the wall (near the sign reading “Free BBQ Tomorrow”). In fact, W enjoyed the cuisine at Cooper’s so much that he had it flown to the White House (and hopefully he didn’t wipe his hands on the curtains in the Lincoln Bedroom).

That is one tasty pork chopThat is one tasty pork chop

After you claim a parking spot and head towards the line you’re hit with a wall of smoke coming off the pits. As you get up to the front, the grillmaster will open the top and you simply point to what you want amidst a gathering of brisket, sausages, ribs and pork chops the size of your head. You can get an optional dunk in the watery BBQ sauce before your choices are placed on butcher paper on a plastic tray and you are directed inside. The inside staff takes your order, weighs it, cuts it into manageable pieces and puts it back on the tray (you should probably ask for extra butcher paper “plates”). While you’re waiting in line you can choose your sides (the potato salad is firm and not heavily mayonnaise-laden, but the corn on the cob is generally overcooked) and get some of their freshly baked berry or peach cobbler for desert (an optimistic move to be sure). Jalapeno pinto beans are free and available in a large crock where you pick up your silverware; their vats of homemade sweet or unsweet tea provide a refreshing beverage to complement the meal. You need to be socially outgoing at Cooper’s since dining is communal-style at indoor picnic tables – each table is stocked with condiments, paper towels and the obligatory loaves of white bread. My personal favorite is their pork chop, a 3″ thick meat monstrosity that is juicy, smoke-permeated and packed with flavor.

Mail order half smokes grilled locallyMail order half smokes grilled locally

Since their presidential visits, you can now have meat from both locations shipped anywhere in the U.S. via their websites. Ben’s Chili Bowl and Cooper’s Pit BBQ are two places where carnivores are the majority party; whether you are Democrat, Republican, Independent, or Bull Moose, when you visit either you’ll find yourself reaching across the aisle, if for no other reason to request a napkin.

Cooper’s Pit BBQ
604 West Young Street
Llano, TX 78643-1249
GPS Coordinates: 30°45’33.29″N 98°40’55.56″W

Ben’s Chili Bowl
1213 U Street NW
Washington D.C., DC 20009
GPS Coordinates: 38°55’1.61″N 77° 1’43.55″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to Cooper’s and Ben’s Chili Bowl

See a parody of Bill Clinton’s love of fast food from SNL

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Secret Service

Secret Chinese menu

Hop Woo, Chinatown L.A.

Yes, that is armadillo shell in the soupYes, that is armadillo shell in the soup

In the new vernacular, sitting down for a meal at a Chinese restaurant and having your chopsticks automatically replaced with a fork is referred to as being “whited”. Of course, one could argue that the waiter’s assumption of your eating utensil of choice is minor when you peel back the proverbial onion and discover that a considerable amount of Chinese restaurants have alternate menus: the Chinese menu, and the “secret” menu. I recently had the opportunity of joining food personality Eddie Lin on a fact-finding mission to Los Angeles’ Hop Woo restaurant in Chinatown to dive beneath the pages of the English language menu and discover the secret pleasures of the Chinese and secret menus. The Chinese menu is just that – a small, Little Black Book of Chinese cuisine printed completely in that language. Chef Liang was kind enough to read items from the menu and present some of the more exotic entries in their naked glory. The evening began with a platter of BBQ chicken feet of Himalayan proportions (somewhere a genius entrepreneur is making a fortune selling avian wheelchairs). I’m not sure these were on the Chinese menu – they seemed to be a conversation starter. While not as tender as the dim sum variety (phoenix talons), they made up for the labor required to extricate the meat in flavor – they were lightly coated in a delicious sauce and tossed with peanuts, black beans, green onions and chopped chilis.

Hair vegetable, a desert-grown bacteriumHair vegetable, a desert-grown bacterium

Chef Liang described the dishes in a variety of languages – in Cantonese with Eddie, in Mandarin with Mary (his friend and translator who joined us for dinner) and in Spanish with Claudia (a language he mastered while working in Mexico). I felt as if I needed the ear buds used by representatives of the United Nations for translation, but there was enough English being bandied about for me to understand what was going on. The meat in the first dish was described as “anteater”; Eddie surmised this to be aardvark (having watched one too many Pink Panther cartoons) but when a bit of shell was visible in a ladle of the soup presented it became apparent that the insectivore in question was in fact a nine-banded armadillo (yes sir, we were fixin’ to eat Texas Speedbump Soup). As with many of the dishes presented that evening, the armadillo soup is said to have healing properties – it is reputed to benefit the kidneys and lower back. Finding the edible armadillo meat was a challenge since the dark, earthy broth hid chunks of pork as well – in this dish, armadillo was “the other white meat”. Menu Item #2 looked like pasta rosettes but turned out to be goose intestines. These were cleaned remarkably well (the nose never lies) and mixed with three kinds of mushroom (drumstick, straw and shitake) taking on their woodsy flavor.

Deer with star melon and leeksDeer with star melon and leeks

Prior to Menu Item #3′s grand debut, Chef Liang brought out a dish of one of the ingredients that looked like some kind of aquatic insect larvae or a bad toupee being soaked but turned out to be bacteria referred to as “hair vegetable”. Nostoc flagelliforme (try asking for that at your friendly neighborhood farmer’s market) is green when it is “fresh” but turns black when dried prior to being reconstituted in water. Since the Cantonese name (faat choy) is similar sounding to the phrase for “good fortune”, it is a popular ingredient in dishes eaten during Lunar New Year. The hair vegetable was only one of the components of the next dish, which featured oysters that had been dried three times in the sun prior to cooking. The mound of oysters were sitting atop chunks of pork, capped with a large mushroom button and covered in a rich brown sauce, and although the hair vegetable didn’t offer a great deal of flavor, it dissolved delightfully on the tongue. Prior to Menu Item #4′s arrival, there was much international discussion about kneecaps which was lost on me until a disk of crispy fried chicken knees were placed on the table. It only stands to reason that if you’re robbing Chicken Little of his mobility by lopping off his feet you might as well kneecap him while you’re down there. These crunchy bites were pretty tasty – I’ve sometimes chewed the cartilage off the joints in a chicken leg, but Chef Liang made the amount of work required negligible and created a tasty snack in the process.

Tasty testes (lamb)Tasty testes (lamb)

Deer meat is said to have properties that benefit blood circulation and clear complexion, but I never have to be sold on chowing down on the Bambi platter. The odd thing about Menu Item #5 was that cooked with leeks and an unusual cucumber-like vegetable called star melon, the deer mellowed out, losing its sometimes wild flavor. The flesh was tender and moist and was by far the best venison dish I’ve eaten to date. I’m not sure Claudia was paying attention when the final item from the Chinese menu was brought out – she placed one of the small, brown disks in her mouth and said it didn’t taste much like lamb to her until I illustrated that she had never had that part of the male lamb before. I’ve had “lamb fries” at Cattlemen’s Steak House in Fort Worth previously and found them to have a tofu-like, spongy consistency that I didn’t much are for, but Chef Liang’s preparation was delicious and had a firm, rich texture. There were two sizes of the medallions with a slight variation in color; Chef Liang explained that this was due to the age difference in the donors.

Fried chicken knees (seriously)Fried chicken knees (seriously)

We ended the meal with a medicinal soup meant to aid in digestion; it contained various roots and tubers and big chunks of what tasted like a cross between yucca root and a cord of firewood. We didn’t sample any items from the secret menu since it’s printed in Chef Liang’s head – the secret menu is whatever you request that they happen to have the ingredients for on hand. In fact, if you request something that they can’t make on the spot, Chef Liang will let you know when he can get the ingredients and invite you back to enjoy your fantasy meal. I never cease to be amazed at the unusual dishes at Hop Woo, and I’m sure many other Chinese restaurants have similar items that aren’t on the Bubba menu. One thing is certain – when I sit down for my next meal at a Chinese restaurant I will muster my best polite smile and say, “Cobra, please”. Ancient Chinese secret, huh?

Hop Woo
845 N. Broadway Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
GPS Coordinates: 34°3’48.88″N 118°14’16.05″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s secret Chinese menu adventure at Hop Woo

Listen to Madeline Brand of KPCC with Eddie Lin experiencing the secret menu at Hop Woo

NOTE: This cost for this meal was provided by the restaurant. The content provided in this article was not influenced whatsoever by the organizer of the event

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The Times They Are A-Changin’

LA Times Celebration of Food and Wine

Paramount Pictures backlot, Hollywood, California

The Hollywood Stage inside B Tank at Paramount backlotThe Hollywood Stage inside B Tank at Paramount backlot

If you’ve been reading Los Angeles food blogs, you’ve already heard what the recent inaugural LA Times Celebration of Food and Wine was not. What it was not was a free lunch, as your $55 General Admission ticket got you onto the historic Paramount Pictures Studios backlot, some free sample tidbits, a seat at the cooking demonstrations and panels with chefs, food truck owners and foodies and concert performances by Angela McKluskey and She and Him. The complaint was that you were still required to purchase food from some of the vendors providing more substantial food (as well as the offerings of the fleet of food trucks parked along the fake streets). Well, as the old saying goes, you gotta make your own fun, and if you put in a little effort you could walk away from the event satisfied. The wine flowed like wine for those with drink tickets and there were a plethora of vendors of a wide variety of other spirits including custom rum, sake, vodka and tequila but under the blistering Southern California sun I was sticking to the free bottles of water being handed out by Fiji. Stages were set up in various locations on the backlot; the Downtown Stage was used for cooking demonstrations, Westside Stage provided a forum for panel discussions, the LA Times Stage was used for question-and-answer sessions, a Wine Chat was held in the shell of one of the fake New York buildings and the Hollywood Stage was reserved for cooking demonstrations by Food Network and Cooking Channel rock stars and the concert performances. The staged events overlapped, meaning that if you aggressively planned to take in all demonstrations, panel discussions and concerts, you were going to miss something but it also meant that there was always something exciting going on. From a nostalgic standpoint, my favorite hangout was B Tank, a graduated pool holding close to a million gallons of water and used for aquatic scenes (such as the boat escape sequence in The Truman Show). Naturally, the pool was drained to make room for the Hollywood Stage, a dining area, and the food trucks participating in the Food Network’s Great Food Truck Race. Los Angeles was represented by the Ragin Cajun truck (complete with rented creole fiddling courtesy of Lisa Haley), Crepes Bonaparte, the Vietnamese-themed Nom Nom truck and Nana Queen’s Puddin’ and Wings.

The giant raspberry-adorned Cooking Channel truck was anchored at the end of the pool and was doling out free cups of salted caramel or strawberry buttermilk ice cream. It seemed odd that the Cooking Channel would have a food truck, but the way it works is that contest winners in various cities where the truck appears have the privilege of using the truck to provide samples of their products. In this case, the fresh, old-fashioned ice cream was made by Carmela, an ice cream manufacturer that normally sells at local farmers’ markets. Co-founded by Jessica Mortarotti in 2006 and named after her grandmother, Carmela takes fresh local ingredients and concocts well-loved flavors as well as the unusual (such as their heirloom tomato gelato or cucumber sorbet). The garden fruit flavors are not every day items, but I asked Jessica to let me know when the tomato dessert is available. TV chefs such as Darrel Smith, Roger Mooking and Aida Mollenkamp did basic cooking demonstrations on the big Hollywood Stage, but it was more fun to watch the demonstrations at the smaller Downtown Stage and queue up after the performance in hopes of getting to the food samples before the supply ran out. LA Times food editor Russ Parson hosted a discussion and demonstration of farm-to-table cooking featuring Campanile/The Tar Pit’s Mark Peel and Suzanne Goin of AOC, Lucques and Tavern; LaVarenne’s Anne Willan showed the crowd how to cook with peppers; and Easy Thai Cooking’s Tommy Tang presented easy Thai cooking (to the surprise of no one). My personal favorite was Noelle Carter (manager of the LA Times Test Kitchen) who grilled shrimp to perfection in a quick and easy performance that culminated in getting to sample the sweet and savory crustaceans on a stick.

Tracey Broderick of Coolhaus hands me foie gras ice creamTracey Broderick of Coolhaus hands me foie gras ice cream

While Carmela dished out free ice cream, Coolhaus’ ice cream truck was on hand with their signature ice cream sandwiches for sale. Natasha Case started what has turned into a mini-fleet with co-founder Freya Estreller in April of 2009. For her vehicle of choice she chose a small US Postal Service mail van and had it retrofitted for keeping the dairy confections cold by a place she referred to as “Junior’s” in nearby City of Industry. Coolhaus currently has 2 trucks, but by November they will have 4 (with one giving Amy’s Ice Cream a run for their money in Austin, Texas). The concept is simple – select an ice cream flavor and your choice of cookie to sandwich it. The concoction is then handed to you in a potato starch wrapper with Coolhaus’ logo that Willy Wonka would be proud of, as it is also edible (Catholics will appreciate that the taste and texture of the wrapper is similar to communion wafer). I debated between the Guinness chip, the balsamic fig and mascarpone, the pistachio black truffle and the brown butter and candied bacon, but ultimately the victor was the trippiest flavor I’d ever come across – foie gras. There was no way this was getting surrounded by a chocolate chip cookie; fortunately they offered a moist, rich brioche that complemented the goose liver well. As with garlic ice cream, the initial flavor is sweet cream, but once the aroma sneaks up the back of your nose and hits the olfactory sensors, the ultra-rich taste of the foie gras creeps in and is held at bay with the bready brioche. Instead of wiping my mouth with the wrapper, I found a perverse sense of satisfaction by stuffing it in.

Leena Deneroff, owner of the Dosa TruckLeena Deneroff, owner of the Dosa Truck

Another food truck that fascinated me, yet I admittedly had not encountered before was the Dosa Truck. Think vegetarian crepe, moo shu or burrito and you get an idea of the Indian street food offered on self-titled dosa waller Leena Deneroff’s truck is like. Everything is made from scratch, including the urad dal (the labor-intensive batter used for “throwing” the dosa). The dosa is the thin, pancake-like wrap used to contain all that vegetarian goodness; the batter can take up to several days to make as it involves soaking, grinding and fermenting black-shelled urad beans. The timing has to be perfect, and in order to ensure enough batter each day batches are staggered days in advanced. I asked Leena what would prompt someone to specialize in a food that requires so much time and effort to produce, and she simply stated, “I love it!”; Deneroff has been enjoying dosa for over 20 years and wanted to share her love of the food with others. The truck has been on the streets since July of 2009 and business is steadily improving. The most popular item is the Slumdog (a dosa coated with a pesto-like paste and stuffed with paneer, fresh spinach and curried potatoes), but I wanted to try the most traditional item, the Mumbai Madness. This is the closest thing the dosa you would get directly off of a street cart in Mumbai, filled with nothing but warm, tender curried potato. The dosa has a slightly pungent taste, but inoffensive; while still somewhat doughy it gets crispy along the end which adds wonderful texture to the dish, and the potatoes were not too mushy or too firm. Deneroff participated in a panel discussion with Natasha Case and Jennifer Green from the Nom Nom Truck, which to me was one of the highlights of the festival. Other panels included bloggers Ree Drummond (The Pioneer Woman) and Aarti Sequeira (Aarti Paarti) who encouraged would-be food bloggers; Life After Top Chef featuring former contestants Betty Fraser, Chris Jacobsen and Alex Reznik; Re-inventing Latin Cuisine with Jimmy Shaw (Loteria Grill), Ricardo Zarate (Mo-Chica) and John Sedlar (Rivera); and, a panel titled “L.A.’s New Star Chefs” featuring Michael Voltaggio and John Shook and Vinny Dotolo of Animal. The last panel was like attending a rock concert; the chef groupies would erupt into maddening applause for their local heroes, but the chefs themselves seemed relatively down-to-earth. One thing that particularly impressed me about Chef Voltaggio was when he related a story of a schoolteacher that told him she and her husband saved up for 6 months to enjoy his cooking. This touched him in a way that made him vow to make fine cuisine accessible to everyone in a laid-back environment, and I hope he follows through on his goal and inspires others to do likewise.

Chef Brendan Collins of Waterloo and CityChef Brendan Collins of Waterloo and City

My press credentials were a slightly more restrictive version of the general admission ticket, although I was granted access to the VIP area by escort. The VIP area was in a cordoned-off section of the main plaza across from Tank B and featured vendors providing free samples that weren’t represented at the rest of the festival; in addition there was a separate large tent where exclusive demonstrations and tastings were held. I was afraid my press pass was going to prove to be a detriment moving through the VIP area, but I discovered that as soon as the vendors saw the badge hanging from the lanyard I was dragged into booths to faster than a prospective john at Boy’s Town in Nuevo Laredo. My first “voulez vous mangez avec moi?” experience was at Water Grill’s booth. Executive Chef David LeFevre led a gang of oyster knife-wielding bad mothershuckers who were popping open Rappahannock River and Kumamoto oysters like nobody’s business. LeFevre explained that there are 5 main species of oysters (all of which he naturally could recite the scientific name for), with dozens, if not hundreds of sub-species. Water Grill features 8 of these sub-species at a time, meaning you could find two or three varieties from the same family that taste radically different. There are a number of factors that contribute to the distinctive flavor of an oyster, including water temperature, whether the oysters are exposed to air via tides, etc.; Chef LeFevre could describe to you what flavors would be present just by naming the oyster. I had never met anyone so well-versed in oysterology; he could tell a good oyster from a bad oyster by the look, sound and smell; mentioned the best places to source oysters and the worst (shockingly the Gulf Coast falls in the latter category due to susceptibility to red tide and other contaminants); demonstrated the way to perfectly and quickly shuck an oyster; and, explained how to keep oysters fresh and properly prepare and serve them. I tried one of the Rappahannocks that was freshly shucked; there were a variety of disguises available for the oysters (including lemon, horseradish, etc.) but I simply poured the mollusk into my mouth. The oyster was firm and briny without being overly salty – it tasted like the ocean and I could have easily eaten a dozen or more. One attendee tried an oyster for the first time in his life and grinned ear-to-ear when he found out how good they taste. Chef LeFevre mentioned that Water Grill features all kinds of seafood, prompting me to ask about New England seafood. Although they don’t do steamers (they don’t have an appreciative clientele), they do a lobster roll that doesn’t miss a step, right down to the squared-off hotdog bun.

Salts Cure serves up smoked yellow tail snapperSalts Cure serves up smoked yellow tail snapper

Salt’s Cure also had a booth in the VIP area – they’ve only been opened 2 weeks, but are onboard the “nose-to-tail” train that seems to ensure popularity in the Los Angeles area. They shun the gastropub label, but pride themselves on making absolutely everything (right down to their in-house mayonnaise and ketchup). Everything is fresh and locally sourced; at the festival they were slicing pieces of smoked yellowtail snapper on toast with cucumbers and their own mayonnaise and each was a tiny explosion of flavor. Brendan Collins of Waterloo and City manned their booth which featured a chicken liver foie gras parfait with Madeira jelly in little plastic shot glasses. The foie gras was creamy with a whipped consistency with a thin layer of gelatin on top. W&C provided little round toast slices to scoop up the livery goo and a single taste was all that it took to slap me into shut-uppiness. The foie gras had a sharp and muted, earthy taste, but then the Madeira reduction kicked in and added a bold sweetness that offset yet complemented the flavor. I actually found myself breaking the cup apart and wresting the remaining dollops out with my tongue, an act I’m not particularly proud of yet offer no apology. They also presented a duck and walnut pate with orange marmalade, and it would appear that there isn’t an aspect of charcuterie Chef Collins hasn’t mastered. The man is like an offal pusher; he gets you hooked with your first little bites until you’re up at 4 AM wondering how long you’ll have to wait in Waterloo and City’s parking lot until they open.

Yvette Garfield, Handstand Kids Cookbook CompanyYvette Garfield, Handstand Kids Cookbook Company

One vendor in the general area that particularly impressed me was The Handstand Kids Cookbook Company. Yvette Garfield started the company in 2007 with the idea that children should be given options for expanding their food experience at an early age so that we don’t end up with a generation who consider Nissin Cup Noodles, Spaghetti-Os and Taco Bell smart ethnic food choices. Garfield has a target age of 6 to 10 years, although the cookbooks are accessible to kindergarten age kids up through young teens. There are three main cookbooks currently: Mexican (in a plastic “tortilla bag”), Italian (in a pizza box) and Chinese (in a big, red take-out box). The books introduce children to food terms in the language of the cuisine’s country of origin and then use the terms in the native tongue throughout. In addition to recipes with clear instruction, the books feature snippets of cultural stories and experiences as told from a kid’s point of view. In addition to the cookbooks, The Handstand Kids Cookbook Company also conducts Picky Eater Classes in single-day, hour-long segments and summer programs that range from 1 day per week to week-long workshops. Another booth listed as the Korean Cultural Center was handing out little samples of Noak Doo (a mung bean pancake) with a soy-based sauce for topping the tiny bites. The pancakes had a strong taste of fresh cabbage and onion, and although there was a grain-like quality to them they were made primarily from mung bean flour. To the left in the same booth sat a fleet of bottles of bokbunjajoo (black raspberry wine) and makegeolli rice beer for sale, but I couldn’t imagine when I’d have the opportunity to pair either of them with my meal.

David LeFevre (then with Water Grill) shucks imaginary oystersDavid LeFevre (then with Water Grill) shucks imaginary oysters

Angela McCkuskey’s set sounded canned with live vocals, but it was slightly soulful and all pop; She & Him (featuring Zooey Deschanel & M. Ward) offered a folksy-pop set that was surprisingly good given the history of actors-turned-musicians we’ve been forced to endure. Unfortunately the terms of my media pass prohibited me from photographing She and Him’s performance, although it didn’t stop the audience from grabbing shots on their phones. From a standpoint of being a celebration of food and wine where you could experience, learn and participate in the culinary activities it was successful; hopefully they’ll work out a few of the logistics bugs before launching the second annual event. It would be nice to see a regular event that isn’t a celebration of food and whine.

Carmela
Los Angeles area farmers’ markets

Coolhaus
Los Angeles CA, Austin TX and NYC, NY
http://twitter.com/COOLHAUS
http://www.facebook.com/pages/COOLHAUS-Ice-Cream-Sandwiches/88028220134

Salt’s Cure
7494 Santa Monica Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90046
GPS Coordinates: 34°5’26.30″N 118°21’10.65″W

DOSAtruck
Los Angeles County, CA
http://twitter.com/dosatruck/

Water Grill
544 South Grand
Los Angeles, CA, 90071
GPS Coordinates: 34°2’55.89″N 118°15’17.76″W

Waterloo and City
12517 West Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90066
GPS Coordinates:  33°59’49.06″N 118°25’53.27″W

GALLERY: See images from the inaugural LA Times Celebration of Food and Wine

Video from the inaugural LA Times Celebration of Food and Wine

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Spam, Wonderful Spam!

SPAM (Honolulu, Hawaii and Austin, Texas)

SPAM, wonderful SPAMSPAM, wonderful SPAM

What do you mean, “Ech”? I’m not sure where Spam gets its bad reputation; perhaps it’s because it comes in a can. Food snobs turn their nose up at it, likening it to the meat version of Cheez Whiz. Even the great food explorer Andrew Zimmern expresses his disdain for it. You know a food is feared when people prefer blowfish to it, but Spam also generates somewhat of a cult following. We’ll talk about where Spam gets elevated to cause célèbre status, but first let’s discuss its humble origin. Spam was originally made by Hormel Foods of Austin, Minnesota way back in 1937. Although alternating versions of the name attribute it to an alliteration of “Shoulder of Pork and hAM” or the simpler “SPiced HAM”, Hormel maintains that the name is an adjective, and insists that it is spelled with all upper-case letters. One of my personal favorite plays on the acronym is “Something Posing As Meat.” The ingredients state it is chopped pork shoulder with added ham meat. It gained a surge in popularity during World War II, especially in Hawaii where fresh meat was difficult to come by. American soldiers ate it with most of their meals, and it continues to be eaten by more Hawaiians that anywhere else on earth per capita. As I discovered on a trip to Austin, Minnesota (for non-Spam purposes), you can smell it throughout the town (those of you living near Heinz in Pittsburgh or General Foods in Woburn, Massachusetts know what I’m talking about). Read the rest of this entry »

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