Fish kidney curry at Jitlada Thai Restaurant
Hollywood (Los Angeles), California

Death in a bowl - fish kidney curryDeath in a bowl - fish kidney curry

You could drive past Jitlada several times before you find it, tucked into the elbow of a diminutive strip mall in an unsavory and otherwise unremarkable stretch of Sunset Boulevard. Unfortunately there’s no lava floe or cinder cones to alert you to the fact that you’ve just pulled up to the portal to the realm of Hades on the river Phlegethon; oh, sure, it looks innocent enough – but once you take in the unmistakable aroma of brimstone, you know you’ve arrived. The building’s façade features two yellow signs, one which reads, “Jitlada Restaurant Thai Cuisine” and the other in Thai reading, “Not responsible for third degree burns”. A friend from Austin wanted to meet for dinner and have Thai food close to where he was staying; I suggested Jitlada since I’d heard positive feedback from survivors who had returned from their incendiary lunches and dinners to recommend it with what was left of their blistered tongues.

The Sultan of Hot, Hollywood's Jitlada RestaurantThe Sultan of Hot, Hollywood's Jitlada Restaurant

A neon sign in the front windows advertises “Real Chilis Real Spicy” and like Smokey the Bear, you’d best heed this PSA. The menu is somewhat substantial and I was pleased to see selections I didn’t recognize either by name or ingredients; naturally I gravitated towards the kaeng phûung plaa kûng sàp (fish kidney curry). We started with the Shrimp in Golden Thread (although to me it seemed more like shrimp in golden string); this odd little basket of crustacean takes a decent-sized shelled shrimp and weaves golden noodles around it in a loose cocoon that imprisons it while it is fried to a crackly crunch. The dish is somewhat of an enigma in that the noodles are fried and crispy, yet the entombed shrimp inside is precisely cooked (not white and cold, nor charred). The only drawback to biting into this mouse-sized shrimp nest is that the noodles are so crunchy that they disintegrate all over the plate, leaving you with a shrimp and a few defiant strands of noodles.

A perfectly cooked shrimp entwined in golden noodlesA perfectly cooked shrimp entwined in golden noodles

I was instantly “whited” when ordering the fish kidney curry; I was asked if I wanted it milder (with coconut milk) and warned that it is extremely spicy, and like an idiot wanted the traditional preparation and told her to bring the heat.  As the food was brought to the table, I briefly envisioned the bowl being set down with insulated tongs by service staff in a flame-retardant hazmat suit, but there it was, the square bowl of thick, roux-like lava chock full of exotic vegetables such as bamboo and Thai Green eggplant and partially dissolved bits of shrimp and fish half-submerged in the caustic brew like the Terminator robot. I fished around in the curry for fish kidneys but could find no such animal; apparently my penchant for offal was thwarted by a menu translation faux pas. Before muting the incendiary stew with rice I navigated an eggplant quarter and chunk of shrimp onto the spoon and carefully placed it in my mouth. I thoroughly relished the blend of curry and spices and the thick, hearty texture of the sauce, contrasted with the firm flesh of the eggplant, just prior to the immolation of the inside of my mouth. The pain spread down my throat, rendering speech futile, and yet through the agony the rich, almost erotic flavor of the sauce was not only pleasant, but amplified.

Fire and brimstone delivered to you through the portal to hell in backFire and brimstone delivered to you through the portal to hell in back

I imagine the milquetoast version would have had a completely different flavor, and although it may have spared me from going down, down, down in a burning ring of fire for the following two days, I have no regrets ordering the nuclear version (in fact, I took the uneaten portion home in its convenient asbestos-lined container to finish for lunch the following day). Jitlada is legendary for turning the flame up to eleven but I’m not sure where the fish kidney curry sits on the Scoville scale in comparison to their other dishes. The restaurant is divided into two dining rooms, and we had opted to situate ourselves several tables from the open kitchen doorway in the room to the left. Midway through dining I began coughing and my eyes began stinging; I initially thought I was ingesting the fumes from my order, but there seemed to be an invisible cloud of tear gas emanating from the kitchen. I have no idea what some poor bastard ordered that was being concocted in Hell’s Kitchen, but if it had that effect on me in the other room, that diner was in for a special treat and a midnight trip to the emergency room.

I would seriously caution anyone who takes issue with spicy food to avoid Jitlada like the plague; however, if you’re like me and have a difficult time discerning the fine line between pleasure and pain, I can personally vouch for the fish kidney curry as a fine selection for masochistic dining ecstasy. If you’re looking for a second opinion, Satan gives it four stars.

Jitlada Thai Restaurant
5233 W. Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90027
GPS Coordinates:  34° 5’54.52″N 118°18’14.75″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s fiery visit to Jitlada Thai Restaurant in Hollywood, California

 

Irish coffee

Guaranteed to take the chill out of youGuaranteed to take the chill out of you

First off, there is no Sean Valdez hand picking the finest beans in the coffee plantations along the Twelve Bens with his faithful Irish Draught horse. Irish coffee is a somewhat modern libation, invented in Ireland in the 1940s in County Limerick:

There once was a head chef at Foynes
Who for only a couple of coins
Would rather quite briskly
Mix coffee, cream and whisky
Said New Yorkers who drank it, “It boins!”

I’m sure I’ve taken liberties with the Gaelic pronunciation of the Foynes seaport, but we’ll attribute it to poetic license. Before the opening of Shannon Airport on the flats farther up the port, Foynes was a landing spot for seaplanes and other aircraft; Chef Joe Sheridan came up with the idea to create a drink that warmed passengers disembarking from transatlantic flights on the cold inlet. According to the original “recipe”, Caifé Gaelach added Irish whiskey and sugar to hot coffee and then topped with a thick cream that floated on top. For authentic Irish coffee, the cream is not mixed into the coffee and brown sugar is the preferred sweetener (in fact in 1988, the National Standards Authority of Ireland instituted “ID 268, Irish Standard #417 – Irish Coffee” to describe the proper way to maintain authenticity and integrity of the hot beverage).

It is written in bronze, not stoneIt is written in bronze, not stone

Journalist Stanton Delaplane is credited with bringing the drink to the United States, having sampled it on a trip to Ireland while working as a travel writer for the San Francisco Chronicle. Delaplane approached the Buena Vista Cafe to propose they serve the drink, and after several marathon test kitchen runs, the drink familiar to San Franciscans was born on November 10, 1952. Although Tom Bergin’s in Los Angeles also claims to have discovered the drink (as an archaic neon sign out front still suggests), they state somewhat vaguely that they’ve been serving it since the 1950s. Anyone who has been in San Francisco when the cold fog rolls in and wraps itself around you like a misty ice cube would probably agree the drink is more suitable for that clammy clime than sunny SoCal.

The Buena Vista has a slight variation in production than with Sheridan’s drink; the glass mugs are first filed with boiling water and allowed to set for a while to get the mug hot; after the water is poured out glass is partially filled with hot coffee. Where Sheridan used a teaspoon of brown sugar, the Buena Vista drops two white sugar cubes into the mug (along with a shot of Tullamore Dew Irish whiskey) and stirs until dissolved. In the old country, the cream is poured over the back of a spoon raised slightly above the coffee, while the Buena Vista’s technique appears to us the spoon as a baffle. In early experiments the cream would naturally sink to the bottom, but after conferring with a local dairyman the Buena Vista found that frothing the cream after aging it for several days allowed it to rest on top of the coffee.

Topping off the Irish coffee with creamTopping off the Irish coffee with cream

Watching the production of an Irish coffee at the Buena Vista is a spectacle that today still brings in a crowd; the bartender rarely pours a single coffee. Normally the bar is lined with up to twenty mugs with the bartender working in quick precision to fill them all (a tip is appreciated for this caffeinated spectacular, which is usually done in front of a large crowd). The Buena Vista’s location ensures that it is always packed; located on the corner of Hyde and Beach Streets, they are two blocks from Ghirardelli Square; across the street from the terminus of the Hyde Street cable car line; two blocks from Hyde Street Pier and the maritime museum; and, a brisk walk from Fisherman’s Wharf. The building itself carries some history – built as a boarding house, it was converted to a tavern in 1916. The main dining area is somewhat small; in addition to the old bar, the Buena Vista whips up a great breakfast (just plain coffee is recommended) with standard saloon fare served throughout the day. During most hours of operation getting a table is hard to come by; it’s not uncommon to see people standing over your table waiting for you to finish so they can grab the spot; the after-work crowd fills the joint to standing room only, mostly for drinks.

The Buena Vista, American home to Irish CoffeeThe Buena Vista, American home to Irish Coffee

Naturally the Buena Vista is a popular spot on St. Patrick’s Day but when the cold sea air rolls in off the bay on big cat feet, anytime is perfect for warming your innards with Sheridan’s magic elixir. Now if I could only find an Irish kopi luwak…

The Buena Vista Cafe
2765 Hyde Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
GPS Coordinates:  37°48’23.80″N 122°25’14.45″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to San Francisco’s Buena Vista for Irish Coffee

 

Venice Beach Freakshow
Los Angeles (Venice) California

The Venice Beach FreakshowThe Venice Beach Freakshow

Welcome back, my friends, to the show that never ends; we’re so glad you could attend – come inside, come inside! The response you’re likely to get when announcing to fellow Angelenos that you’re going out to see the Venice Beach Freakshow is, “What part of the beach are you going to?” Los Angeles’ Venice Beach is packed with more craziness per square foot than almost any other place in the U.S., making it the filming location of choice for movies such as L.A. Story and Mixed Nuts, but the short stretch of boardwalk south of Santa Monica Pier is home to an eponymous self-contained sideshow that concentrates the madness into a converted storefront. The Venice Beach Freakshow is the brainchild of entrepreneur Todd Ray who, along with his family has expanded the freak show to include live and preserved animals (and humans) with multiple extremities and a stage featuring sideshow performers.

No Photoshop involved in this photoNo Photoshop involved in this photo

There is usually a barker outside convincing the public to part with a fin for the purpose of gawking at a collection and performances that are part P. T. Barnum, part Mutter Museum. As a teaser, a plastic tub of water holds a couple of small turtles paddling about to their hearts’ content; upon closer inspection, the couple of turtles each contain a couple of turtles with one sporting two heads and six legs while the other features three heads. There is a painted picture of Rocky the 5-legged dog on the banner out front; in the image, Rocky is portrayed as a fearsome Doberman complete with spiked collar which strikes fear into the hearts of mortal men until Ray’s wife Danielle approaches carrying Rocky, a frisky miniature pinscher. When you consider that you’ve seen this prior to paying admission to Ray’s freak show, the $5 seems like a bargain.

Danielle Ray holds Rocky the five-legged dogDanielle Ray holds Rocky the five-legged dog

Upon entering the large single room to the right, the first thing you encounter is a brightly painted carnival stage that, depending on what time you arrive, may or may not have a show in progress. If not, stay put for a bit and you’ll be treated to the frequently scheduled show featuring a rotation of the kind of performers you’d expect to see at The Jim Rose Circus. The first act to perform on my visit introduced himself as Digger the Sadu Hobo from Scotland. Wearing nothing but a kilt, Mr. Digger took the stage and proceeded to subject himself to broken glass, folding chairs and audience members standing on top of him while sandwiched between two beds of nails. As with any other live show or street performance you’re likely to encounter on Ocean Front Walk, the performers graciously appreciate tips, and so for varying denominations you can tip Digger in the most appropriate manner – by fastening the bills to him with a handy staple gun. A dollar will get you the privilege of postering his chest, stomach or back; five will allow you to tack Abe Lincoln to his forehead; for ten dollars you can put Alexander Hamilton’s face on his; twenty makes a bulletin board of his tongue. Although the show is appropriate for all ages (who can suppress their gag reflexes), for an additional fee you can meet Digger after the show and fasten your cash in “other places”.

One guess what Digger the Sadu Hobo does with that staple gunOne guess what Digger the Sadu Hobo does with that staple gun

After the human pincushion left the stage, an eyebrowless platinum blond gentleman took the stage, shirtless but in a lab coat (for scientific authenticity, we can only surmise). Introducing himself as Morgue (yes, like the place where they take your corpse), he presented a hammer and nail and asked the audience if they’d like to watch him hurt himself – the applause was enthusiastic. After sterilizing the nail with his tongue, Mr. Morgue proceeded to hammer it up his nose, leaving it protruding from his right nostril a bit for effect. More impressive was his swallowing of a two-foot long sword after which he removed the hilt to demonstrate that it was not collapsible (like his lung in the event of a misjudged voyage down his esophagus). Perhaps his creepiest bit was taking a shiny, stainless-steel meat hook and threading it into his nostril (after removing the nail, of course) until the curved end emerged from his gaping maw. He then proceeded to walk through the crowd for a Kodak moment; the part I had a hard time with was hearing his raspy breathing which may be a side effect of having a metal hook running through your nasal passage.

Kids, don't try this at homeKids, don't try this at home

Morgue brought Asia Ray (daughter of owner Todd, who also boasts the titles “The Rubber Girl”, “Fire Eater”, and “Electra, The Electric Lady”) onstage and ringmastered her electrifying performance. He began by throwing an old-fashioned double-knife throw switch which activated a red rotating alert light indicating the metal-plated chair to which it was attached was now ready to put 220 on the money. He placed a florescent bulb near the seat, which caused blue arcs to leap to the bulb base and light the gas; Asia (now Electra) sat in Old Sparky and matched the behavior of the metal plate with her hand. When Morgue announced that he was going to add gasoline to the equation I quickly mapped out the nearest exit, an unnecessary task since he simply dunked a torch into the jar which was then ignited with a touch of Electra’s finger. Ray stayed on stage, producing a second torch, which she lit and proceeded to dramatically eat the flame from both without the benefit of a side dish. Quickly changing gears to Rubber Girl, she held a broomstick behind her back with her hands out to the side, fingers facing back; she then pulled this over her head (if you think that’s easy, try it – I’ll come visit you at the hospital) and then down her front, up through her legs (while standing) and back to the initial position. I was in pain and she didn’t even flinch. She ended her act by placing her hand flat on the top of a stool and then proceeded to walk 360 degrees around it without moving her hand. Since the performers work for tips (the admission is used for upkeep on the animals, most whom are eating for two), I left a tip but opted not to use the staple gun.

One of the Jenny Hanivers on displayOne of the Jenny Hanivers on display

After the show I walked around to peruse the exhibits; another stage show had started, but since I’d already witnessed the human drama of athletic competition sans the Vinko Bogataj “agony of defeat” moment I took my time at the displays. One case labeled “Monsters of the Deep” featured diminutive freaky fish, although the baby sturgeon wasn’t likely to frighten Nemo. Of greater interest was a case holding several dehydrated creatures that had been pulled up into fishing nets sporting ghostly human faces and willowy limbs; these are various varieties of skates and rays with the “wings” trimmed down, the fishes’ gill openings looking like eyes on the surgically formed head. Formerly known as “Jenny Hanivers” these mythical and whimsical manufactured beasts have been around as fodder for sideshows for and dockside purchases since the mid-16th century, predating the Fiji Mermaid.

In terms of live freaks, cages held a range of reptilian captives sporting multiple extremities in including additional turtles; a six-legged frog; a two-headed, six-legged bearded dragon; a diecephalic king snake; and a green iguana whose regenerative skills pulled a double shift when he lost his original tail.  Glass cases hold the skeletons or stuffed and mounted remains of other polycephalic or diprosopus animals including a two-faced raccoon; a calf head with two partial heads joined in the middle; and a goat with two complete individual heads and six legs; most of these animals are juveniles since their condition rarely allows them to survive very long (having to share organs and compete for food). One glass case holds a skeleton of a two-headed human baby; I’m somewhat skeptical since a cursory scan of eBay or Craigslist doesn’t turn up many sites hawking dicephalic infant skeletons and judging by the size, the owners would have had to have been toddlers.

A live two-headed, six-legged bearded dragonA live two-headed, six-legged bearded dragon

Todd Ray passed up a lucrative career in the music industry to devote his time and energies into this labor of love; apparently he scours the globe traveling to far off exotic lands in search of living and deceased natural oddities to stock his ever-expanding freak empire. If you happen to be checking out the exterior Land of Oz that is Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach, dropping a five-spot at the Venice Beach Freakshow is an entertainment-packed bargain. So let the sideshow begin – hurry, hurry, step right on in; can’t afford to pass it by, guaranteed to make you cry.

Venice Beach Freakshow
909 Ocean Front Walk
Los Angeles (Venice), CA 90291
GPS Coordinates:  33°59’25.25″N 118°28’35.83″W

See images from Val’s adventure in the freak show at Venice Beach

 

Pork spleen

The eel-like pork spleenThe eel-like pork spleen

In health as well as in gastronomic circles, the spleen is underappreciated and underutilized, often overlooked because no one is really sure what it does. The dark red organ gets its color from being the body’s blood recycling center; in addition to removing old red blood cells, it also acts as a reservoir for fresh blood. The spleen is one of the hardest working organs in show business (although it spends most of its time backstage while the heart, lungs and brains get all the press); in addition to being blood central, the spleen also ramps up the body’s immune system.

From a culinary standpoint, it doesn’t find its way on many menus, even in hardcore gastropubs where the nose-to-tail philosophy is executed with a vengeance. The closest cute nickname that attempts to make the organ sound more appetizing is “melt”; this probably hasn’t caught on since ordering little Billy a melt sandwich will require several years of expensive therapy when what he thought was a grilled cheese comes to the table with a generous mound of sliced spleen lovingly enveloped between crusty slices of artisan bread. This shouldn’t be a shock for someone ordering sweetbreads, fully expecting that the waiter will not be bringing out the pan dulce. For most offal aficionados, beef spleen is the most frequently used. Nutritionally, as you would expect from the body’s blood bank, the spleen is high in iron, packed with protein and low in fat, although like its cousin the liver it is high in cholesterol. Sadly, the spleen finds its way into more pet food than onto the dinner table.

Lindy and Grundy's meat casesLindy and Grundy's meat cases

Following L.A.’s favorite butchers (Lindy and Grundy) on Twitter provides the Twitterverse with the day’s animal flesh roll call; one recent tweet advertised that they had spleen available, and not being one to pass up an animal part I’ve yet to try, I decided to procure said organ for another of my “if you can’t find it in a restaurant, make it” experiments. I discovered that the spleen was porcine in nature rather than the almost-popular beef variety, which made it that much more attractive. I love visiting Lindy and Grundy, with the gleaming meat cases filled with every part of what walks, hops or flies around the barnyard; the meat trolley system snaking through the store like an abattoir amusement park ride; the neon art on white tile behind the counter that illuminates an old sign showing the cuts of beef drawn on a steer; I think what I love the best is when Erika “Grundy” Nakamura looks up from the butcher block, cleaver in hand and says, “I was thinking about you last week, Val – I had a goat penis in, but it was too small to be practical.”

Spleen simmering in the panSpleen simmering in the pan

I left Lindy and Grundy with a single spleen (as I would only be cooking it for myself) and some of their house-made scrapple; my newfound quandary was how I was going to prepare the spleen. Amelia “Lindy” Posada suggested looking up British chef Fergus Henderson’s recipe for spleen, and in doing research I found his recipe along with suggestions for other ethnic dishes featuring spleen (vastedda, a Sicilian sandwich layered with beef spleen cooked in lard and garnished with ricotta cheese; an Italian crostini featuring chopped spleen; milzsuppe (a sturdy German beef spleen soup); and, gefilte milts, a rather ambitious stuffed spleen item). Taking a cue from the self-taught Chef Henderson, I decided to go it alone. I cut the spleen into three segments; laid out it looked like a primitive flat red eel or a two foot long tongue and I knew it would never fit in the pan. As soon as the meat hit the hot bacon fat in the skillet, it did an unusual thing – the meat contracted like a garden slug sprinkled with salt. In addition to shrinking in length it also plumped up, something I’d never encountered before. Once I’d seared the spleen I browned some onion in the pan and added some beef stock and a cheap pour of some Two-Buck Chuck, lowering the heat and allowing it to simmer. As a side dish I cut some Yukon gold and blue Peruvian fingerling potatoes into little disks; these I fried, resulting in what looked like a pile of checkers or two-toned coins.

The finished product - pork spleen surpriseThe finished product - pork spleen surprise

I plated the organ meat with the onion sauce that cooked town drizzled about the top, and cut into a piece of the spleen (which looked like it would have easily given way to a fork’s edge). The texture was almost identical to cooked turkey liver (I hope that’s not too obscure a reference point), and the taste was unique. Since this was pig spleen and I have yet to try beef spleen, I can’t vouch for the common complaint that the meat is high on the funk scale with a muddy taste and strong smell – the pork spleen was mild, with a rich taste that was difficult to pinpoint at the initial forkful. Eventually the aftertaste kicked in which was plainly bloody in nature, although it didn’t have the heavy metallic taste usually accompanying blood dishes. Also surprising was the appearance; I believe the blood content of the spleen contributed to the dark, almost black color. The dish did not have an offensive smell; what aroma it did have was largely a result of the onion, Italian seasoning and wine.

Although I have a higher tolerance for offal and economy cuts of meat, I actually found the pork spleen to be flavorful and unique in texture; it’s an item that I’d try again, most likely at home as I’ve yet to see it on any menu. If you’ve been holding out on me and are aware of the dish appearing on accessible gastropub menus, you got some spleenin’ to do.

Lindy and Grundy
801 North Fairfax Avenue
Los Angeles CA 90046
GPS Coordinates:  34°5’9.46″N 118°21’42.02″W

GALLERY: See images from Lindy & Grundy (butchers) and Val preparing the pork spleen

VIDEO: Watch the preparation and consumption of the pork spleen

 

 

Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, Portland OR

Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, a landmark since 1907Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, a landmark since 1907

Portland, Oregon is small for a metropolitan city with a laid-back feel to it, but it boasts a thriving food community with something for everyone. In addition to haute cuisine, food carts, delightfully off-center establishments (such as Le Bistro Montage and Voodoo Doughnuts) and the lion’s share of coffee houses, Portland is also home to a handful of historic eateries with long and rich pedigrees like Huber’s Cafe. One of these antiques began humbly as an oyster bar back in 1907 in a time when Portland was a thriving port. Louis Wachsmuth originally founded Louis’ Oyster Bar to sell oysters his family harvested out of Yaquina Bay (about 100 miles southwest as the crow flies on the Pacific Coast). Wachsmuth’s operation became so popular that he was able to expand into the Merchant’s Exchange Saloon in 1919, adding additional seafood dishes to the menu.

A half-dozen regional oysters (from upper right, clockwise)A half-dozen regional oysters (from upper right, clockwise)

As additional dining rooms were added, they were designed with standard nautical motif befitting a seafood house; Wachsmuth took this concept one step further in 1937 when laying out the main dining room, giving it the look and feel of eating in the belly of an old ship (complete with portholes). Louis’ Oyster Bar was a thriving family business that felt the impact of losing Wachsmuth’s son Dan to complications from the flue in 1938; as a tribute, the business was christened “Dan & Louis Oyster Bar”, which it maintains to this day and is still family owned and operated.

The ship-shaped main dining room, added in 1937The ship-shaped main dining room, added in 1937

One of the menu items added during the initial expansion in 1919 was a simple, yet rich and elegant dish that remains Dan & Louis Oyster Bar’s most popular – the oyster stew. The brew is so ridiculously simple, yet decadent and flavorful; no reduction of this or shaved that or oak barrel aged oil of whatever – just Yaquina Bay oysters, milk, butter, salt and pepper. For the full effect, enjoying this warming concoction is best experienced in the main dining room. As the gleaming metal bowl is brought to the large, wooden galley table the thought crosses your mind that you may get doused as the room pitches on the waves, but the only risk of that happening is if the Willamette River floods its banks again. Taking in the steam rising from the stew makes you appreciate what you don’t smell – the oysters are shucked fresh before being cooked and although a sightless person could easily identify the seafood dish the aroma lets you know you’re in for a treat.

The rich, buttery oyster stew at Portland's Dan & Louis Oyster BarThe rich, buttery oyster stew at Portland's Dan & Louis Oyster Bar

Large, whole oysters are submerged in the opaque, yellow broth; each spoonful yields plump, firm and moist mollusks that necessitate savoring slowly. The ingredients are expertly blended – there’s the perfect amount of salinity, the black pepper doesn’t burn away the flavor, and the butter that separates at the top lightly coats each oyster to create an experience similar to dredging steamers through drawn butter. The rule of thumb at most restaurants is not to go crazy with the carbs when the bread comes out, but you’re going to want to retain some or at least have some oyster crackers at hand to sponge up the creamy aphrodisiac.

The front bar where the shucking gets doneThe front bar where the shucking gets done

Of course, don’t pass up the opportunity to sample regional oysters on the half shell. Although the Yaquina Bay oysters Louis Wachsmuth became famous for are now in short supply (what hasn’t been over-fished is supplied to higher paying customers on the East Coast), Dan and Louis still rotates a decent variety of the local mollusks. Whether by the half or full dozen, these pearls of the sea are shucked at the old bar in the front window, with the list of the day’s selection written on the chalkboard behind the bar. I recently tried the Deer Creek, Gigamoto, Nisqually, Penn Cove, Snow Creek and Tillamook Bay shellfish. Each was relatively small in comparison to other oysters, with the diminutive Gigamoto’s shell being no bigger than a half dollar. Although the oysters were from either Oregon or bordering Washington State, they couldn’t have been more diverse in texture and flavor. While the aromatic and strong-flavored Deer Creek and Tillamook Bay seem to be the most popular, and the Gigamoto (a cross between the Kumamoto and Pacifica) is mild with a low salinity, my favorite was the Nisqually, striking a nice balance of salinity, sweet flavor and firmness.

Portland has a plethora of unique and often historic eateries that serve food perfect for the cool, damp clime of the Northwest, and experiencing this hidden treasure tucked away on a narrow, quiet street is like finding a lustrous pearl hiding in the rough recesses of a shell bed.

Dan & Louis Oyster Bar
208 Southwest Ankeny Street
Portland, OR 97204
GPS Coordinates: 45°31’20.83″N 122°40’21.46″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to the historic Dan & Louis Oyster Bar in Portland, Oregon

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